A Detailed Overview of Eikando Temple’s History and Highlights

　Table of Contents

1. What is Eikando?
2. The History of Eikando
3. Highlights of Eikando

Introduction

Kyoto is home to numerous renowned tourist destinations, but among them, Eikando Temple (Zenrinji) holds a special place as a site where historical significance and seasonal natural beauty blend harmoniously. Especially famed as the "Temple of Maple Leaves," Eikando has been cherished for centuries, earning the phrase "Autumn is Eikando."

This article provides an in-depth exploration of Eikando’s history, its significance, and its must-see attractions. By delving into the temple’s origins, which date back to the Heian period, and highlighting its key features, we aim to guide you in fully appreciating the unique charm of this historic site.

1. What is Eikando? 

Eikando (officially named Zenrinji) is a renowned temple located in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto. Known as the headquarters of the Jodo-shu Seizan Zenrin-ji school of Buddhism, it is celebrated for its scenic beauty harmonizing with Kyoto’s changing seasons. Particularly famous as a prime spot for autumn foliage, Eikando attracts countless worshippers and tourists from both Japan and abroad. Its mountain name, Shiunzan ("Purple Cloud Mountain"), reflects the serene and solemn atmosphere created by its surrounding landscapes and tranquil environment.

The history of Eikando dates back to 853 CE (Ninju 3), when a high-ranking Shingon Buddhist monk, Shinsho Sozu, purchased the former residence of Fujiwara no Sekio and enshrined the Five Wisdom Buddhas there. In 863 CE (Jogan 5), Emperor Seiwa granted the temple the name "Zenrinji." In the late 11th century, a priest named Eikan (also called Eikan Sozu) entered the temple and revived it as a center for Pure Land Buddhist practices. His contributions led to the popular name "Eikando" being associated with the temple.

One of the temple’s unique highlights is its principal image, the standing statue of Amida Buddha, known as Mikaeri Amida ("Looking-Back Amida"). The statue, with its head turned to the left as if glancing over its shoulder, is considered one of Japan's most distinctive and revered Buddhist sculptures.

The temple grounds are adorned with approximately 3,000 maple trees, including iroha momiji and omo momiji, which dazzle visitors with their vibrant autumn colors. The sight of the foliage reflected in the Hojo Pond, known as the "upside-down maple," is particularly breathtaking. Visitors can also enjoy panoramic views of Kyoto city and the striking contrast between the autumn leaves and urban landscape from the temple’s Tahoto Pagoda, located on elevated ground.

Eikando is cherished not only for its historic architecture and exquisite gardens but also for its seasonal beauty throughout the year. During the autumn foliage season, nighttime illuminations are held, allowing visitors to experience a magical and ethereal atmosphere distinct from the daytime.

2. History of Eikando  

Eikando (Zenrin-ji) is the head temple of the Jodo-shu Seizan Zenrin-ji school, located in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto. Renowned as a famous spot for autumn foliage, its history dates back to the Heian period, encompassing many significant events that have shaped it into what it is today. Below, we detail the key milestones in Eikando’s long history.

　1. The Founding of Eikando (853)  

Image is for illustration purposes. 

Eikando traces its origins to 853 CE (Ninju 3) when Shinsho Sozu, a prominent Shingon Buddhist monk, purchased the former residence of Fujiwara no Sekio and enshrined the Five Wisdom Buddhas there. Shinsho chose this location to propagate Buddhist teachings and established the temple.

In 863 CE (Jogan 5), Emperor Seiwa granted the temple the official name "Zenrin-ji," meaning "temple of the meditation grove." This name reflects its role as a significant site for prayer and national stability. With its founding, Zenrin-ji gained an important place in the history of Japanese Buddhism.

　2. Eikan’s Arrival and the Legend of "Mikaeri Amida" (1082)  

Image is for illustration purposes. 

In 1082 CE (Eihō 2), the monk Eikan (Eikan Sozu) entered Zenrin-ji and revived the temple, which had fallen into disrepair. Eikan promoted the practice of Pure Land Buddhism, transforming Zenrin-ji into a renowned center for nenbutsu practice (chanting the Buddha's name). This pivotal period gave rise to the name "Eikando," derived from Eikan's deep connection with the temple.

The most famous story from this era involves the statue of Mikaeri Amida (The Looking-Back Amida Buddha). According to legend, while Eikan was chanting the nenbutsu, the Amida Buddha statue turned its head to the left and looked back at him. This rare and compassionate gesture symbolizes the Buddha's watchful care for all beings, even those who lag behind. The statue remains a beloved attraction at Eikando today.

　3. Devastation and Reconstruction During the Ōnin War (1467)  

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The Ōnin War (1467–1477), a conflict that engulfed Kyoto in chaos, caused significant damage to Eikando. Many of the temple’s buildings were destroyed in the fires of war.

Despite the extensive damage, reconstruction efforts began in the late Muromachi period. With support from Emperor Go-Tsuchimikado and Emperor Go-Kashiwabara, key structures such as the Mieido Hall and Hojo (main hall) were rebuilt. These efforts solidified Eikando's position as an important nenbutsu training ground once more.

　4. Support from Tokugawa Ieyasu (1615)  

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During the early Edo period, Tokugawa Ieyasu extended his patronage to Eikando and other temples of the Jodo-shu Seizan school. He granted the temple official documents and land, ensuring its financial stability and enabling cultural and architectural developments.

The gardens and temple buildings were further refined during this period, establishing the scenic beauty that Eikando is known for today. The temple also became a prominent spiritual hub, drawing an increasing number of visitors and strengthening its role as a center of Jodo-shu teachings.

　5. Modern Preservation and Development (1950–Present)  

Image is for illustration purposes. 

In the modern era, Eikando has continued to be a cherished landmark. During the 1950s, restoration efforts were carried out on the main hall and the Tahoto Pagoda, preserving them as important cultural assets. These preservation efforts have ensured that Eikando retains its breathtaking seasonal beauty, which continues to draw visitors year-round.

Today, Eikando is celebrated as a premier spot for autumn foliage. The temple’s nighttime illuminations during the fall season are especially popular, offering visitors a chance to experience its enchanting beauty under a different light. As a site of religious, historical, and cultural significance, Eikando remains deeply loved and appreciated by all who visit.

3. Highlights of Eikando 

Eikando (Zenrin-ji), located in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, serves as the head temple of the Jodo-shu Seizan Zenrin-ji school and is famously known as "Eikando of Maple Leaves" for its breathtaking autumn foliage. Below are the key highlights of this renowned temple.

　■ Amida Hall and the "Mikaeri Amida" Statue 

The Amida Hall, the main building of Eikando, houses one of its most iconic features: the "Mikaeri Amida" (Looking-Back Amida Buddha). Unlike traditional Amida Buddha statues, which face forward in a standing position, this statue is distinct for its unique posture, with its head turned to the left as if looking back. This posture is interpreted as symbolizing the Buddha’s compassion, extending salvation even to those who lag behind.

The statue is believed to have been crafted during the late Heian to early Kamakura period. It combines the realistic style characteristic of Kamakura-era sculptures with the elegance of Heian-era Buddhist art. The Buddha's serene expression, tinged with a hint of melancholy, reflects a profound sense of compassion.

　■ Tahoto Pagoda 

The Tahoto Pagoda is situated on the highest point within Eikando’s grounds, offering a spectacular viewpoint for visitors. This two-story structure, styled as a three-tiered pagoda, reflects traditional Zen Buddhist architectural aesthetics. Originally built as a significant structure for spreading Buddhist teachings, the pagoda continues to captivate visitors with its timeless beauty.

Inside the pagoda, Buddhist statues are enshrined, creating a tranquil atmosphere that harmonizes with the surrounding nature. The view from the pagoda encompasses both the temple grounds and the city of Kyoto, particularly stunning during the autumn foliage season when vibrant reds and yellows spread out below. Early morning and sunset visits enhance the pagoda’s magical allure, making it a favorite spot for photography enthusiasts.​

　■ Hosho Pond 

Located at the heart of Eikando’s grounds, Hosho Pond has long served as a site for Buddhist rituals such as "hosho," where living creatures are released to express reverence for life. The pond’s serene surface acts as a mirror, reflecting the surrounding scenery, and becomes particularly mesmerizing during the autumn when it showcases the famed "upside-down maple leaves."

The area around the pond is beautifully landscaped with stone lanterns and moss-covered rocks, enhancing its charm as a traditional Japanese garden. Visitors can stroll along the pathways and bridges around the pond, appreciating its changing beauty from various angles.​

　■ Garyuro (Winding Dragon Corridor) 

The Garyuro, or Winding Dragon Corridor, connects the Miedo Hall, Amida Hall, and Kaisando Hall. Spanning approximately 50 meters, this covered walkway is named for its resemblance to a dragon undulating through the landscape. Built along a steep slope, the corridor features a series of staircases and a unique curved design, leaving a lasting impression on visitors.

　■ Hojo and Gardens 

The Hojo (main hall) of Eikando is renowned for its beautiful fusuma-e (sliding door paintings) and its trio of distinctive gardens.

・West Garden (Tang Gate Garden): A refined garden featuring white gravel and azaleas.
・North Garden: A pond-centered garden with lush greenery and seasonal flowers.
・South Garden: A unique combination of dry landscape and pond elements.

During the autumn, the gardens are adorned with vivid hues of red and gold, creating a serene and picturesque setting that changes with each season.

 In Conclusion 

Eikando (Zenrin-ji) is a timeless symbol of Kyoto’s rich history, culture, and natural beauty. From its founding during the Heian period to the present day, the temple has continuously inspired and touched the hearts of those who visit.

Each season reveals a different facet of Eikando’s charm: the fresh green leaves of spring, the cool shade of summer, the vibrant autumn foliage, and the serene snow-covered landscapes of winter.

We hope this article has deepened your appreciation of Eikando’s historical and aesthetic significance. When visiting Kyoto, be sure to include Eikando in your itinerary and immerse yourself in its history and beauty. Experience a moment of tranquility and connect with Japan’s cultural heritage.