🕓 2024/12/15
#Tourist Destinations
A Detailed Guide to the History and Overview of Eikando Temple
Table of Contents
Introduction
When it comes to Kyoto tourist destinations, numerous famous spots come to mind. Among them, Eikando (Zenrin-ji Temple) is a special place where historical background and seasonal natural beauty are beautifully harmonized. Known as “Momiji no Eikando” (Eikando of the Maples), it has been so beloved as an autumn foliage spot that it has been praised as “Autumn belongs to Eikando” since ancient times.
In this article, we provide a detailed explanation of Eikando’s overview, history, and highlights. While unraveling the long history of Eikando dating back to the Heian period, we introduce the spots and charms you should know when visiting.
What is Eikando?
Eikando (official name: Zenrin-ji Temple) is located in Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City, and is known as the head temple of the Jodo Sect Seizan Zenrinji school. The temple is widely known for its beautiful grounds that harmonize with Kyoto’s seasonal nature, attracting many worshippers and tourists from Japan and abroad, especially as a famous autumn foliage spot. Its mountain name is “Shiun-zan” (Purple Cloud Mountain), and the surrounding landscape and temple atmosphere create a serene and solemn space.
Its history dates back to 853 (Ninju 3), when Shinsho Sozu, a high priest of the Shingon sect, purchased the former residence of Fujiwara no Sekio and enshrined the Five Wisdom Buddhas. In 863 (Jogan 5), Emperor Seiwa bestowed the imperial plaque reading “Zenrin-ji.” In the latter half of the 11th century, Eikan Ritsushi (Eikan Sozu) entered the temple and revived it as a center for Pure Land Buddhist practice. From this, the popular name Eikando was born. Notably, the principal image of the standing Amida Nyorai statue is known as the “Mikaeri Amida” (Looking-Back Amida) for its unique posture of tilting its head to the left and looking back, making it a nationally rare Buddhist statue.
The grounds feature approximately 3,000 Iroha maples and Ohmomiji trees, and in autumn, the vivid foliage captivates visitors. In particular, the “inverted autumn leaves” reflected in the Hojo-chi Pond are known as a spectacular view. From the Tahoto Pagoda, situated on high ground within the temple, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of Kyoto city, with the contrast of autumn foliage and the cityscape.
Eikando possesses historic buildings and beautiful gardens, and is a place where visitors can enjoy scenery throughout the four seasons. During the autumn foliage season in particular, illuminations are held, allowing visitors to experience a fantastical atmosphere different from daytime.
History of Eikando
Eikando (Zenrin-ji Temple) is the head temple of the Jodo Sect Seizan Zenrinji school, located in Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City, widely known as a famous autumn foliage spot. Its history began in the Heian period and has undergone many significant events to reach the present day. Below, we explain Eikando’s history in five major events.
1. 853: Founding of Eikando
*Image for illustration purposes
The origins of Eikando date back to 853 (Ninju 3) in the early Heian period. At that time, Shinsho Sozu, a high priest and Shingon sect monk, purchased the former estate of Fujiwara no Sekio and enshrined Five Wisdom Buddha statues there. Shinsho chose this location to spread the teachings of Buddhism and established the temple.
Ten years later in 863 (Jogan 5), Emperor Seiwa bestowed the imperial plaque “Zenrin-ji,” giving the temple its official name. “Zenrin” means a Buddhist training hall, indicating that the temple was recognized as an important place for praying for national peace. Through this founding, Zenrin-ji came to occupy an important position in the history of Japanese Buddhism.
2. 1082: Eikan Ritsushi’s Entry and the Legend of “Mikaeri Amida”
*Image for illustration purposes
In 1082 (Eiho 2) during the late Heian period, the vinaya priest Eikan Ritsushi entered Zenrin-ji and revived the deteriorating temple. During this period, Eikan Ritsushi promoted the practice of “Pure Land Nembutsu” and made Zenrin-ji widely known as a nembutsu training hall. This activity would later give rise to the popular name “Eikando.”
Particularly famous is the legend of the “Mikaeri Amida.” It is said that during Eikan Ritsushi’s nembutsu walking meditation, the enshrined Amida Nyorai statue showed itself tilting its head to the left and looking back. This Amida Nyorai statue is still known today as the “Mikaeri Amida” and draws the attention of many visitors to Eikando.
3. 1467: Damage from the Onin War and Reconstruction
*Image for illustration purposes
The Onin War (1467-1477) during the Muromachi period engulfed all of Kyoto in the chaos of war. Eikando was no exception, with major temple halls destroyed by fire. Despite this extensive damage, reconstruction began in the late Muromachi period.
With support from Emperor Go-Tsuchimikado and Emperor Go-Kashiwabara, major buildings such as the Miedo Hall and Hojo were reconstructed. The reconstruction during this period established an important foundation for Eikando’s subsequent history. Through this restoration, Eikando once again fulfilled its role as a Pure Land nembutsu training hall.
4. 1615: Patronage from Tokugawa Ieyasu
*Image for illustration purposes
In the early Edo period, Tokugawa Ieyasu granted various regulations and vermilion seal certificates for temple lands to the Pure Land Seizan sect temples, including Eikando. This patronage allowed Eikando to maintain stable temple lands, and cultural activities and restoration work were actively carried out.
During this period, the temple’s gardens and architecture were also maintained, and the beautiful landscapes of Eikando that continue to the present day began to take shape. Additionally, more worshippers began to visit, further strengthening its position as a spiritual center of the Pure Land sect.
5. Post-1950: Preservation and Development in Modern Times
*Image for illustration purposes
Eikando continues to be loved by many people into the modern era. In the 1950s, restoration of the main hall and Tahoto Pagoda was carried out from a cultural property preservation perspective, and the gardens and temple halls were properly conserved. Through these preservation activities, Eikando has maintained its beautiful seasonal landscapes and continues to captivate many visitors to this day.
Furthermore, Eikando is known as a famous autumn foliage spot, with illuminations held during the foliage season. These events play an important role in establishing Eikando’s position as a representative tourist destination of Kyoto. Even today, Eikando is cherished by many people as a place of religious, historical, and cultural value.
Highlights of Eikando
Eikando (Zenrin-ji Temple) is the head temple of the Jodo Sect Seizan Zenrinji school, located in Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City, known as “Momiji no Eikando” (Eikando of the Maples). The following spots are notable highlights.
■ Amida Hall and “Mikaeri Amida”
The Amida Hall is Eikando’s main hall and one of its most symbolic buildings. The “Mikaeri Amida” enshrined within makes a special impression on all who visit. While typical Amida Nyorai statues face forward and stand upright, this statue has its head tilted to the left in a unique posture of looking back over its shoulder. This posture is interpreted as symbolizing compassion — “extending a hand of salvation even to those who come from behind.”
This statue is believed to have been created between the late Heian period and the early Kamakura period, combining the realism characteristic of Kamakura sculpture with the elegance typical of Heian Buddhist art. The expression on the statue carries a gentle smile yet somehow pensive quality, with deep compassion dwelling in its gaze.
■ Tahoto Pagoda
The Tahoto Pagoda is located at the highest point within the Eikando grounds and is known as an excellent observation spot with panoramic views of the surroundings. This pagoda has a two-tiered structure in the form of a three-story pagoda, incorporating the symbolic architectural style of Zen Buddhism. Originally serving an important role in spreading Buddhist teachings, its beautiful appearance continues to captivate visitors today.
Buddhist statues are enshrined inside the pagoda, which exudes a serene atmosphere as if united with the surrounding nature. The view from the Tahoto offers a spectacular panorama of Kyoto city and the temple grounds, and during the autumn foliage season, colorful maple leaves spread below like a painting. The pagoda is particularly photogenic when sunrise or sunset light streams in, making it a popular spot for photography enthusiasts.
■ Hojo-chi Pond
Located in the central part of Eikando, the Hojo-chi Pond, as its name “Release Pond” suggests, is based on the Buddhist ritual of “hojo” (releasing living creatures), and has been used since ancient times as a place to cherish life by releasing living creatures. The still water surface reflects the surrounding scenery like a mirror, and during the autumn foliage season, it is famous for its “inverted autumn leaves.” The autumn leaves reflected on the water surface, combined with the actual scenery, create a fantastical landscape.
The area around the Hojo-chi Pond is beautifully maintained as a garden, with stone lanterns and moss-covered rocks arranged throughout. This enhances the beauty of the pond as a Japanese garden. From the bridges and walking paths beside the pond, visitors can enjoy the pond scenery from different angles, with the landscape revealing a different expression with each step.
■ Garyu-ro (Dragon Corridor)
The Garyu-ro is a roofed corridor approximately 50 meters long that connects the Miedo Hall, Amida Hall, and Kaisan-do Hall. It was named “Garyu-ro” (Reclining Dragon Corridor) because its curved shape resembles a dragon undulating its body. This corridor is designed along the hillside, featuring steeply stepped stairs. Its unique structure makes a deep impression on visitors.
■ Hojo and Gardens
The Hojo (Main Hall) features beautiful fusuma paintings (sliding door paintings) and three distinctly different gardens. The Hojo West Garden (Kara-mon front garden) is an elegant garden with white sand and satsuki azaleas, the Hojo North Garden is a pond-centered strolling garden, and the Hojo South Garden is a rare composition that combines a dry landscape garden with a pond garden. During the autumn foliage season in particular, the gardens are enveloped in vivid colors, allowing visitors to feel the seasonal charm in a tranquil atmosphere.
Summary
Eikando (Zenrin-ji Temple) is a special place that symbolizes Kyoto’s history, culture, and natural beauty. Its long history, from its founding in the Heian period to the present day, has deeply moved the hearts of many through numerous events.
Eikando reveals different expressions throughout the four seasons — fresh green leaves in spring, cool shade in summer, vivid autumn foliage, and snowy landscapes in winter — allowing visitors to fully enjoy its charm no matter when they visit.
We hope this article has given you a deeper understanding of Eikando’s appeal. When visiting Kyoto, please stop by Eikando to experience its history and beauty firsthand, and enjoy a moment of connection with Japan’s traditional culture.