🕓 2024/9/2
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Harmonica Yokocho is an iconic spot in Kichijoji that developed as a black market after World War II and still retains a strong atmosphere of the Showa era. This narrow alleyway is home to around 90 shops, including retro-style bookstores, beauty salons, and vintage record shops, making it a place where you can enjoy not only food and drinks but also various cultural experiences. Harmonica Yokocho shows a different face during the day and night, making it a beloved spot for both locals and tourists alike.
In this article, we'll introduce the history and overview of Harmonica Yokocho, along with some must-visit gourmet spots and other attractive places to explore when you visit.
Harmonica Yokocho is a small shopping street located just in front of Kichijoji Station in Tokyo, preserving much of the atmosphere from the post-war black market era. The alley's name comes from its unique shape, resembling the closely packed reeds of a harmonica. Established shortly after World War II, the alley still retains a retro streetscape that evokes the feel of that era.
With around 90 stores lining its narrow passages, the alley bustles during the day with long-standing shops such as fishmongers, handmade confectionery shops, and casual clothing stores. On the first Sunday of every month, a morning market is held, attracting both locals and visitors. However, as night falls, red lanterns light up the alley, and it transforms into a lively scene with standing bars and small eateries, offering a completely different atmosphere.
Located just a minute's walk from Kichijoji Station's north exit, Harmonica Yokocho is loved by both tourists and locals alike. Recently, August 24th has been designated as "Harmonica Yokocho Day," with various revitalization events taking place.
In recent years, new stores have joined the alley, blending modern elements while preserving its old-fashioned charm. Packed with the culture and history of Kichijoji, this alley remains a beloved spot for both locals and tourists.
Harmonica Yokocho, located in Kichijoji, Musashino City, Tokyo, is a historic market that began as a post-war black market. Below, we have organized its history by key events.
1. The Birth and Formation of the Black Market (1945–1950s)
The origins of Harmonica Yokocho trace back to the chaotic period following World War II. Although Kichijoji Station and its surroundings escaped the worst of the war's destruction, the area faced severe shortages of goods. In response, makeshift stalls began to spring up around the station, forming what would later become the black market foundation of Harmonica Yokocho. These early stalls were simple, consisting of ropes strung across vacant lots and newspapers laid out to display goods. Over time, more merchants gathered, and the market became a vital spot for selling daily necessities and food items.
2. Establishment as a Legitimate Market (1950s–1960s)
By the 1950s, the black market had evolved into a commercial hub in Kichijoji, with the area gradually being developed into a more formal shopping street. Authorized shops began to open, creating the densely packed small stores that characterize the area today. It was during this period that the alley acquired the name "Harmonica Yokocho," due to the passageways’ resemblance to the reeds of a harmonica.
3. From Showa to Heisei, and into the Present (1970s–Present)
From the 1970s onward, Harmonica Yokocho continued to thrive as a vibrant shopping area in Kichijoji, with a diverse array of stores. However, during Japan's economic bubble and with the rise of large commercial facilities, the alley faced a period of decline. Despite this, the dedication of local residents and shopkeepers helped revitalize the area. Today, Harmonica Yokocho is celebrated as a unique space that blends the nostalgic atmosphere of the Showa era with new cultural and lifestyle elements, attracting both tourists and local residents.
4. Reassessment of Cultural Value and Development as a Tourist Spot (2000s–Present)
In the 2000s, Harmonica Yokocho began to attract attention again, especially among young people and tourists who were drawn to its nostalgic Showa charm. In recent years, the alley's historical and cultural significance has been increasingly recognized, leading to more frequent coverage in various media. The area, with its array of eateries, specialty shops, and bars, has established itself as a symbol of Kichijoji’s “retro-modern” appeal.
Harmonica Yokocho is home to various charming spots. Below are some of the top recommendations you shouldn’t miss.
1. Tachizushi Yokocho
"Tachizushi Yokocho" is a standing sushi bar located just a short walk from Kichijoji Station's north exit. Opened in 2020, it quickly became popular among locals and tourists alike. Here, you can enjoy Edo-style sushi at affordable prices. The lunch set is particularly good value, with even lower prices for those who choose to stand rather than sit. Not only can you savor fresh sushi, but you can also enjoy drinks like sours and highballs at half price. For those who prefer a more relaxed atmosphere, there’s seating available on the second floor.
2. Trattoria Piatto Fresco
Located along the central street of Harmonica Yokocho, "Trattoria Piatto Fresco" is a hidden gem offering Italian cuisine with just counter seating. The chef runs the place single-handedly, using carefully selected ingredients to create authentic Italian dishes. Recommended menu items include seafood pasta, pizzas with homemade sauces, and bagna cauda made with seasonal vegetables. The restaurant’s sophisticated ambiance provides a cozy setting for enjoying a leisurely meal.
3. Asia Shokudo Coconut
"Asia Shokudo Coconut" is an Asian restaurant where you can enjoy authentic Thai cuisine and Vietnamese pho. It was founded in 2010 by a Thai couple and is now run by their daughter, "Nacchan." The interior decor is imported from Thailand, allowing diners to enjoy an authentic atmosphere. Popular dishes include Khao Man Gai and pho, making it a perfect spot for lunch or an early evening meal. The restaurant’s second and third floors each have different themes, giving you the feeling of dining in Bangkok, Phuket, or Chiang Mai.
4. Yushoku Taiyaki Honpo Amane
Amane is a well-known wagashi (Japanese confectionery) shop in Harmonica Yokocho, perfect for grabbing a snack while strolling. The shop is famous for its "hane-tsuki taiyaki," a taiyaki with a crispy, fragrant crust and a chewy interior. The taiyaki dough is made with brown sugar, ensuring it stays delicious even when cold. The shop also offers other popular wagashi items such as dango and warabi mochi, making it a great choice for gifts.
5. POLLO
POLLO is a specialty roast chicken shop located at the entrance of Harmonica Yokocho. The aroma of rosemary wafts from the shop, where authentic roast chicken is slowly cooked on a rotating grill. The result is chicken that’s crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. The shop is standing-room only, and during lunch hours, you can enjoy the "Poyo Lunch," a quick and easy way to savor roast chicken. POLLO is especially popular during the Christmas season, when you can order a whole chicken to take home and enjoy.
6. Harmonica Kitchen
Harmonica Kitchen is a multi-level izakaya located in the heart of Harmonica Yokocho. The establishment spans three floors, each offering a different atmosphere. The first floor is a casual standing bar, the second floor is a chic lounge, and the third floor has a lively street stall vibe, allowing you to choose the setting that suits your mood. The menu is diverse, with a focus on Chinese dishes. Single servings of favorites like shrimp chili, Shanghai fried noodles, and mapo tofu are available for just 500 yen, making it an affordable and delicious dining option.
Harmonica Yokocho is home to several secondhand bookstores that carry books and records from the Showa era. The narrow interiors of these shops exude a nostalgic atmosphere, offering the joy of discovering hidden gems. These stores are particularly recommended for those who love a retro vibe.
・Secondhand Bookstores
ハーモニカ横丁には昭和時代の本やレコードを取り扱う古書店が点在しています。狭い店内には、懐かしい雰囲気が漂い、掘り出し物を見つける楽しさがあります。特にレトロな雰囲気が好きな方にはおすすめです。
・Beauty Salons
There are also some unique beauty salons within the alley. These salons are popular not only with locals but also with tourists, offering hair and skincare services in a relaxed setting. Enjoying beauty treatments while soaking in the charm of Harmonica Yokocho provides a special experience.
・Record Shops
For music lovers, there are a few record shops where you can find vintage records and rare albums. Inside these shops, you can enjoy conversations with knowledgeable staff and share your passion for music.
Harmonica Yokocho is not just a shopping street but a special place filled with the history and culture of Kichijoji. Evolving from a post-war black market, this alley has preserved the charm of the Showa era while incorporating modern elements, offering visitors a variety of experiences.
By exploring the gourmet spots and cultural shops introduced in this article, you can deepen your appreciation of Kichijoji’s unique appeal. Be sure to visit Harmonica Yokocho and experience its distinctive atmosphere and rich history for yourself.