Japanese Izakaya Guide: How to Enjoy Japan’s Beloved Casual Pubs

Introduction

A salaryman ducks under the noren curtain after work and kicks off the evening with a cheerful “Toriaezu biiru!” (A beer, for starters!) — the Japanese izakaya is far more than just a restaurant. It is a cultural space at the heart of everyday life and socializing in Japan. With their casual atmosphere and delicious food and drinks, izakayas are one of the best places for travelers to experience authentic Japanese food culture.

However, if you’re visiting an izakaya for the first time, you probably have plenty of questions — how to read the menu, how to order, how to pay. What is “otoshi”? How do you order all-you-can-drink? Can you smoke? This article answers all of those questions.

In this guide, we cover everything from the history of izakayas to ordering tips, recommended menu items, and etiquette. Consider this your complete guide to enjoying Japanese izakayas to the fullest.

What Is an Izakaya?

Izakayas are often translated as “Japanese pubs” or “Japanese taverns” in English, but they differ significantly from Western pubs and bars. The biggest difference is the incredible variety of food. Izakayas serve a diverse array of dishes rivaling full restaurants — sashimi, yakitori, deep-fried dishes, simmered dishes, salads, hot pots, and even finishing courses of noodles or rice. While drinking is the main purpose, an izakaya visit can easily serve as a full meal.

There are estimated to be over 300,000 izakayas across Japan, ranging from major chains to tiny owner-operated establishments. Prices are reasonable — you can enjoy a satisfying evening of food and drinks for 3,000 to 5,000 yen per person, making izakayas a popular choice for great value dining.

History of Izakayas

The Origins — Standing Drinks at Sake Shops (Edo Period)

The word “izakaya” comes from “ite sake wo nomu” — meaning “a place where you sit and drink sake.” During the Edo period (17th-19th century), customers began drinking the sake they purchased right at the storefront of sake shops (sakaya). Eventually, shops started offering simple snacks (tsumami) alongside the sake, and this became the prototype of the izakaya.

Izakayas of the Edo period thrived as social gathering spots for common people. In Edo (present-day Tokyo), it is said that thousands of izakayas were in operation. Standard drinking snacks included simmered dishes, grilled fish, tofu dishes, and pickled vegetables — the foundations of today’s izakaya menus were already established during this era.

From Public Taverns to Modern Izakaya Chains (20th Century)

Through the Meiji and Taisho eras, izakayas continued as “taishu sakaba” (public taverns) — beloved gathering places for ordinary people. During the rapid economic growth period after World War II (1960s-70s), izakayas cemented their status as the go-to spot for “a drink after work” alongside the rise of salaryman culture. The term “nomi-nication” (a portmanteau of “nomi,” meaning drinking, and “communication”) was coined during this era.

From the 1980s onward, izakaya chains like Yoronotaki, Shirokiya, and Watami expanded nationwide, dramatically lowering the barrier to entry with consistent quality and affordable prices. Since the 2000s, further diversification has brought private-room izakayas, dining bars, and “neo-taishu sakaba” (neo-retro public taverns), evolving into spaces popular with women and young people as well.

In recent years, there has been a renewed appreciation for yokocho (alley) culture, and old-fashioned small izakayas in places like Shinjuku Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho have become extremely popular with international tourists. The experience of drinking at a cramped counter while chatting with the owner offers a taste of “deep Japanese culture” that large chains simply cannot replicate.

How to Order at an Izakaya — From Arrival to Payment

Entering the Izakaya

When you enter an izakaya, you’ll be greeted with a hearty “Irasshaimase!” (Welcome!). Tell the staff your party size and they’ll show you to a seat. If you have a reservation, give them your name. If there’s a choice between counter seats, table seats, or zashiki (tatami-mat private rooms), feel free to state your preference. For zashiki seating, you’ll need to remove your shoes before stepping up.

Your First Order — “Toriaezu Biiru” (A Beer, for Starters)

Once seated, you’ll first be asked for your drink order. At Japanese izakayas, it’s customary to order drinks first and then take your time choosing food. “Toriaezu biiru!” (A beer, for starters!) is the quintessential izakaya phrase — most Japanese people order beer as their first drink. Of course, ordering something other than beer is perfectly fine.

About “Otoshi” (the Table Charge Appetizer)

Along with your first drink, a small dish you didn’t order may arrive at your table. This is “otoshi” (also called “tsukidashi”). Otoshi is a small appetizer served as a substitute for a table or cover charge, typically costing around 300-500 yen. Some visitors are surprised to see an unordered dish appear with a charge attached, but this is a longstanding custom in Japanese izakaya culture. The otoshi changes daily and commonly includes edamame, chilled tofu (hiyayakko), or a small bowl of simmered vegetables.

Ordering Food

Izakaya dining is all about sharing. Rather than ordering one dish per person, the group orders several dishes to place in the center of the table, and everyone helps themselves using small plates. A good rule of thumb is to order about 2-3 dishes per person.

Here’s a recommended ordering strategy:

• Start with sashimi — Enjoy the freshest seafood first
• Grilled dishes — Yakitori, grilled fish, hokke (Atka mackerel), etc.
• Deep-fried dishes — Karaage (fried chicken), tempura, korokke (croquettes), etc.
• Salads and pickles — As a palate cleanser
• A finishing dish (shime) — Onigiri (rice ball), ochazuke (rice with tea), ramen, etc.

Even if the menu is only in Japanese, many restaurants have picture menus, so you can point to what you’d like. An increasing number of restaurants also use tablet ordering systems, some of which support multiple languages.

Nomihodai (All-You-Can-Drink)

For large group gatherings or if you plan to drink a lot, the “nomihodai” (all-you-can-drink) plan is a great deal. For a set time of 90-120 minutes, you can enjoy unlimited beer, highballs, sours, sake, shochu, and soft drinks. The cost is typically 1,500-2,500 yen per person. Party courses that combine a set menu with all-you-can-drink generally cost around 4,000-6,000 yen per person.

Paying the Bill

When you’re ready to leave, call over the staff and say “Okaikei onegaishimasu” (The check, please). The typical process is to receive the bill at your table and then pay at the register. In Japan, splitting the bill equally (warikan) is common, with everyone paying the same amount. Tipping is not required.

More and more izakayas now accept QR code payments like PayPay and credit cards, but many smaller establishments still only take cash. It’s wise to have some cash on hand just in case.

Classic Izakaya Menu Items

Sashimi

Sashimi — thinly sliced fresh seafood served with soy sauce and wasabi — is one of the most iconic Japanese dishes. At an izakaya, ordering a “sashimi moriawase” (assorted sashimi platter) will get you 5-7 varieties such as tuna, salmon, sea bream, squid, and shrimp. Expect to pay around 1,500-2,500 yen.

Yakitori (Grilled Chicken Skewers)

Yakitori — chicken skewered and grilled over charcoal — is the quintessential izakaya staple. You can choose between “tare” (a sweet-savory soy-based glaze) or “shio” (salt) seasoning. Enjoy different flavors from various cuts: negima (chicken and green onion), tsukune (chicken meatball), bonjiri (chicken tail), and sunagimo (gizzard). Each skewer costs around 130-200 yen.

Karaage (Japanese Fried Chicken)

Karaage — seasoned and deep-fried chicken — is one of the most popular izakaya dishes in Japan. Crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside, it’s traditionally served with a squeeze of lemon. A plate costs around 500-800 yen.

Edamame

These salted boiled immature soybeans are the quintessential beer snack. You eat them by squeezing the beans out of the pod. At around 300-400 yen, edamame is a staple that’s also frequently served as the otoshi appetizer.

Nabe (Hot Pot)

Hot pot is the highlight of winter izakaya dining. Motsu-nabe (offal hot pot), kimchi-nabe, shabu-shabu, sukiyaki — gathering around a bubbling pot placed at the center of the table perfectly embodies the social nature of the izakaya experience. A pot serving 2-3 people typically costs 2,000-4,000 yen.

Japanese Drinks to Enjoy at an Izakaya

Beer

Beer is the most popular drink at Japanese izakayas. Draft beers from Japan’s four major breweries — Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, and Suntory — are standard, with a medium mug (500ml) costing around 500-600 yen.

Sake (Nihonshu)

Sake (nihonshu) is a brewed rice wine, and many izakayas pride themselves on offering jizake (local sake from regional breweries). You can enjoy it at your preferred temperature: reishu (chilled), jo-on (room temperature), or kanzake (warmed). A single serving of 1 go (180ml) costs around 500-1,000 yen.

Shochu

Shochu is a distilled spirit made from sweet potato, barley, rice, or other ingredients. It can be enjoyed in many ways: on the rocks, mixed with water, with hot water, or with soda. Izakayas in Kyushu offer an especially impressive selection.

Highball and Sour

Highballs (whisky and soda) and sours (shochu with soda and fruit, such as lemon sour or grapefruit sour) are among the most casual and easy-to-enjoy drinks at an izakaya. At around 400-600 yen per glass, they’re also staples of all-you-can-drink plans.

Izakaya Etiquette

Basic Manners

Japanese izakayas are relatively casual places, but it’s good to observe some basic etiquette.

• Kanpai (Cheers) — Wait until everyone has received their first drink, then raise your glasses together with a hearty “Kanpai!”
• Pouring drinks — When someone’s glass is empty, pour for them (especially for those senior to you)
• Be considerate — Avoid being excessively loud, particularly in smaller establishments
• Shoes — Remove your shoes in zashiki (tatami) seating areas and place them neatly together
• Smoking — Since a 2020 law revision, most restaurants are non-smoking. Some izakayas still allow it, but the number is declining

Izakaya Customs Worth Knowing

Izakayas have unique customs that can enhance your experience. “Shime” refers to a filling dish eaten at the end of the evening — such as ochazuke (rice with tea), onigiri (rice ball), or ramen. “Nijikai” (the second party) is the tradition of heading to another bar or restaurant after the izakaya, a standard part of a Japanese drinking night out.

Recommended Izakaya Areas

Tokyo

Shinjuku Golden Gai is a Showa-era retro area packed with around 200 tiny bars and izakayas, hugely popular with international tourists. Omoide Yokocho is a famous yakitori and offal spot right by Shinjuku Station. Asakusa Hoppy Street is a down-to-earth paradise where you can start drinking from the afternoon.

Osaka

Shinsekai is the holy land of kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers) and draft beer. The lively atmosphere of Janjan Yokocho is uniquely Osaka. The area around Dotonbori is also densely packed with izakayas.

Conclusion

The izakaya is the best place to experience Japanese food culture and social life in its most authentic form. The incredible variety of dishes, the wide selection of drinks, and the open atmosphere where you can strike up a conversation with strangers at the next table — an evening at an izakaya is sure to become one of the best memories of your trip to Japan.

Start your Japanese night out with a “Toriaezu biiru!” and enjoy every moment. If you’d like to learn more about yokocho alley culture or Japanese sake, be sure to check out our related articles.

Frequently Asked Questions