Introduction
The scent of tatami mats in a Japanese-style room, a traditional garden stretching beyond the window, and an open-air bath shrouded in rising steam — a Japanese ryokan is a truly unique accommodation where you can experience Japanese culture with all five senses simply by staying there. Unlike the functional, efficient stay you get at a hotel, a ryokan envelops you in the spirit of “omotenashi” (Japanese hospitality) while letting you experience the traditional Japanese way of life.
However, if it’s your first time staying at a ryokan, the unique rules and etiquette might feel a bit unfamiliar. How do you wear a yukata? Where is dinner served? What are the onsen manners? Do I need to tip? This article answers all of these questions one by one.
This article provides a complete guide from check-in to checkout, covering everything about how to enjoy your ryokan stay. Staying at a ryokan will make your trip to Japan even more special and memorable.
What Is a Ryokan?
| Concept | A traditional Japanese accommodation that combines Japanese-style rooms, hot springs, and Japanese cuisine into a seamless hospitality experience |
|---|---|
| Features | Tatami rooms, futon bedding, yukata robes, hot springs, kaiseki cuisine, and personalized service by a nakai (room attendant) |
| Meals | Typically includes dinner and breakfast (one night, two meals) |
| Check-in | Around 3:00 PM |
| Check-out | Around 10:00–11:00 AM |
| Price Range | 15,000–50,000 yen per person per night with two meals (varies significantly depending on the ryokan’s grade) |
| Tipping | Not required (service charge is included) |
A ryokan is an accommodation built in traditional Japanese architectural style, where guests sleep on futon bedding laid out on tatami-matted rooms, and enjoy hot spring baths and kaiseki cuisine. The biggest difference from a hotel is that the purpose is not simply “to stay overnight,” but rather “spending time at the ryokan” itself is the travel experience.
Ryokans can be found throughout Japan, but they are especially concentrated in hot spring areas. Onsen (hot spring) culture and ryokan culture are inseparably linked, and famous hot spring destinations like Hakone, Kusatsu, Kinosaki, Arima, and Beppu each feature distinctive ryokans. A typical ryokan stay includes “one night with two meals,” meaning both dinner and breakfast are included in the room rate. Meals center around kaiseki cuisine and regional dishes made with local ingredients, and the food itself is one of the great pleasures of staying at a ryokan.
History of Ryokans
From Ancient Waypoints to the Birth of Ryokan Culture
The history of Japanese accommodations dates back to ancient times. During the Nara period (8th century), the Buddhist monk Gyoki, affiliated with Todai-ji Temple, is said to have established free lodging facilities called “fuseya” along major roads. In the Heian period, the practice of aristocrats and monks staying at temple lodgings (shukubo) became established, and the temple stays at Koyasan carry on this tradition to this day.
The prototype of the modern ryokan was established during the Edo period. As travel became popular among common people due to the sankin-kotai system (alternate attendance of feudal lords), pilgrimages to Ise Shrine, and the Shikoku pilgrimage, lodging facilities called “hatago” opened one after another along major roads. Hatago were inns that included meals, and the modern ryokan style of “one night with two meals” was established during this era.
Development of Ryokan Culture from the Meiji Period Onward
From the Meiji period onward, travel to hot spring areas became popular among the masses with the development of railways, and onsen ryokans expanded rapidly. From the Taisho through the Showa periods, the art of “omotenashi” (hospitality) was refined, and the style of nakai (room attendants) providing attentive, personalized service in private rooms became established.
During the era of rapid economic growth (1960s–70s), large-scale ryokans proliferated due to the company trip boom, but after the bubble economy collapsed, smaller, more distinctive ryokans came to be reappreciated. Today, ryokans have polarized into “luxury ryokans” and “affordable ryokans,” and new categories like “Japanese-style resorts,” exemplified by Hoshino Resorts, have also emerged.
How to Enjoy Your Ryokan Stay — From Check-in to Check-out
Check-in (Around 3:00 PM)
Check-in time at a ryokan is typically around 3:00 PM. Upon arrival, you remove your shoes at the entrance and change into slippers. After completing the registration at the front desk (chouba), a nakai (room attendant) will escort you to your room.
Once you reach your room, the nakai will serve you tea and sweets. This is the Japanese version of a “welcome tea” — designed to help you relax after your journey and replenish fluids and sugar before entering the hot spring. At this time, you will also receive information about dinner time, how to use the hot springs, and a general overview of the facility.
Changing into a Yukata
A yukata (lightweight cotton kimono) will be provided in your room. At a ryokan, it is customary to wear the yukata throughout your stay — whether going to the hot spring, having meals, or taking a stroll. The correct way to wear a yukata is with the right side folded inward first (the right panel closest to your body as you look down). Wrapping it left-over-right is reserved for dressing the deceased, so be mindful of this. Tie the obi sash at the front of your waist.
Enjoying the Hot Springs
Bathing in the hot springs is one of the greatest pleasures of staying at a ryokan. Most ryokans have a large communal bath and an open-air bath, and you can bathe as many times as you like from check-in until checkout the next morning. Here are the essential hot spring etiquette rules:
- In the changing room, remove all clothing and bring one small towel into the bathing area
- Rinse your body with water before entering the bath (washing your body thoroughly beforehand is best)
- Do not put your towel in the bath water (place it on your head or on the edge of the bath)
- Keep your voice down and do not run
- After bathing, dry off thoroughly before returning to the changing room
For more details on how to enjoy onsen, please also refer to our onsen guide.
Dinner (Around 6:00–7:00 PM)
Dinner at a ryokan features kaiseki cuisine — the pinnacle of Japanese culinary art. Approximately 10 courses are served one by one, including an appetizer, clear soup, sashimi, grilled dish, simmered dish, deep-fried dish, rice, miso soup, and dessert. The seasonal dishes prepared with local ingredients are the crowning highlight of a ryokan stay.
Some ryokans serve meals in your guest room (room dining), while others serve them in a dedicated dining hall (restaurant). Room dining offers the advantage of enjoying your meal in a private setting, while the dining hall often features a more elaborate ambiance. You can also order drinks such as sake and beer during dinner.
Bedtime
After dinner, you will return to your room to find the futon already laid out (if you had room dining, the nakai will set up the futon after clearing the meal). The futon setup consists of a mattress, comforter, and pillow arranged on the tatami floor — a Japanese-style bed. The firmness of the tatami combined with the comfortable cushioning of the futon is surprisingly pleasant, and it’s a moment when you truly feel immersed in Japanese culture.
Morning Bath and Breakfast (Around 7:00–9:00 AM)
The next morning, we highly recommend taking a “morning bath” (asa-buro) before breakfast. An open-air bath in the crisp morning air is an exceptional experience. Breakfast is typically Japanese-style, featuring grilled fish, egg omelette, miso soup, pickled vegetables, rice, and nori seaweed. At hot spring ryokans, a soft-boiled onsen egg is often included, allowing you to enjoy a hearty traditional Japanese breakfast first thing in the morning.
Check-out (Around 10:00–11:00 AM)
Check-out is typically between 10:00 and 11:00 AM. Settle your bill at the front desk. Any additional drinks or gift shop purchases will be added here. Tipping is not required. In Japan, service charges are included in the room rate, so the best way to express your gratitude is simply by saying “arigatou gozaimashita” (thank you very much).
Types of Ryokans
Onsen Ryokan (Hot Spring Ryokan)
This is the most popular type of ryokan. These ryokans feature natural hot springs and are equipped with large communal baths, open-air baths, and sometimes private in-room open-air baths. They can be found in hot spring areas throughout Japan, including Kusatsu Onsen, Hakone Onsen, and Kinosaki Onsen.
Ryotei Ryokan (Gourmet Ryokan)
These ryokans place particular emphasis on their cuisine, and it is not uncommon for the quality of their food to surpass that of hotel restaurants. They are often found in cities with rich culinary cultures, such as Kyoto and Kanazawa.
Shukubo (Temple Lodgings)
These are accommodations located within temples or shrines. The temple stays at Koyasan are particularly famous, offering experiences such as shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) and morning prayer services (sutra chanting).
Minshuku (Family-Run Guesthouses)
Minshuku offer a more casual and homey atmosphere compared to ryokans. Most are family-run, serving home-style local cuisine. They are also more affordable than ryokans, with rates typically around 8,000–15,000 yen per person per night with two meals.
How to Book and Choose a Ryokan
Booking Methods
You can conveniently book a ryokan through the ryokan’s official website, or through online booking platforms such as Jalan, Rakuten Travel, and Ikyu.com. For English-language booking, sites like Booking.com, Agoda, and Japanese Guest Houses are available. Popular ryokans can be fully booked months in advance, so early reservations are recommended.
Key Points for Choosing a Ryokan
- Type of hot spring — Is it free-flowing natural spring water (kakenagashi) or recirculated? What is the mineral composition?
- Meal style — In-room dining or dining hall?
- Room type — Japanese-style, Japanese-Western hybrid, room with private open-air bath, etc.
- Access — Is shuttle service from the station available?
- Budget — Check the rate per night with two meals (prices are often listed per person)
Conclusion
Staying at a ryokan is one of the most immersive ways to experience Japanese culture. The feel of tatami under your feet, the soothing warmth of hot springs, the beauty of kaiseki cuisine, the attentive hospitality of the nakai — all of these are distilled into a single stay.
The unique customs may feel unfamiliar at first, but the ryokan staff will courteously help ensure your comfort throughout your stay. Relax, and savor the traditional Japanese spirit of hospitality to the fullest.
