- Introduction
- Overview of Matsushima
- History of Matsushima
- Ancient to Medieval Period — Matsushima as a Sacred Site
- Date Masamune and the Reconstruction of Zuigan-ji (17th Century)
- Matsuo Basho and The Narrow Road to the Deep North — Path to Japan’s Three Scenic Views (17th–18th Century)
- Modern Era — The Great East Japan Earthquake and Recovery (20th–21st Century)
- Highlights & Recommended Spots
- Nearby Attractions
- Access Information
- Conclusion
- Frequently Asked Questions
Introduction
The scenery created by over 260 islands floating in Matsushima Bay, Miyagi Prefecture, has captivated people since ancient times as one of Japan’s Three Most Scenic Views (Nihon Sankei). Matsushima — a landscape where pine-covered islands of various sizes are scattered across the deep blue sea — is said to have inspired the haiku poet Matsuo Basho to compose: “Matsushima ya / Ah, Matsushima ya / Matsushima ya” (though this verse is actually attributed to a later poet, it remains beloved as a phrase that perfectly captures Matsushima’s beauty).
Matsushima’s appeal extends far beyond its scenery. Zuigan-ji Temple, a National Treasure rebuilt by Date Masamune; the elegant vermilion Godai-do Hall; and fresh seafood — with its seamless blend of history, nature, and cuisine, Matsushima welcomes approximately 3.5 million visitors annually as one of Tohoku’s premier tourist destinations.
This article provides a detailed guide to Matsushima, covering its history, highlights, and signature cuisine. Discover the profound allure of this destination truly worthy of its status as one of Japan’s Three Most Scenic Views.
Overview of Matsushima
| Name | Matsushima |
|---|---|
| Location | Matsushima Town, Miyagi District, Miyagi Prefecture and surrounding areas |
| Designation | One of Japan’s Three Most Scenic Views (along with Amanohashidate and Miyajima), Special Place of Scenic Beauty |
| Number of Islands | Approximately 260 |
| Major Attractions | Zuigan-ji Temple, Godai-do Hall, Fukuura Island, Kanran-tei Tea House |
| Sightseeing Cruise | Bay circuit course approx. 50 min (from 1,500 yen for adults) |
| Access | Right outside JR Senseki Line “Matsushima-Kaigan Station” |
Matsushima is a scenic area comprising Matsushima Bay on the Pacific coast of central Miyagi Prefecture and the approximately 260 islands that dot its waters. It became nationally renowned after the haiku master Matsuo Basho visited during his Oku no Hosomichi (The Narrow Road to the Deep North) journey in 1689, and is counted among Japan’s Three Most Scenic Views alongside Amanohashidate (Kyoto) and Miyajima (Hiroshima).
The islands of Matsushima were formed through wave erosion of Tertiary-period tuff and sandstone, each taking on a unique shape. Many islands are named after their distinctive forms, such as Nio-jima (Deva King Island), Kane-jima (Bell Island), and Sengan-jima (Thousand-Kan Island), and their varied sculptural beauty can be enjoyed from sightseeing boats. The contrast of green pines, white rock faces, and blue ocean is beautiful throughout the four seasons, with the snow-dusted Matsushima of winter offering an especially enchanting atmosphere.
History of Matsushima
Ancient to Medieval Period — Matsushima as a Sacred Site
Matsushima’s history as a sacred site predates its fame as a scenic destination. In 828 during the Heian period, the Tendai Buddhist monk Jikaku Daishi Ennin is said to have founded Enpuku-ji Temple, the predecessor of Zuigan-ji. Ennin was an eminent monk who studied in Tang Dynasty China for nine years, and after returning to Japan, he established temples throughout the Tohoku region. Matsushima’s ethereal landscape became intertwined with Buddhist Pure Land philosophy, and the area came to be revered as a “sacred site of Oshu” (northern Japan).
Numerous cliff-carved Buddha images and memorial towers, believed to have been sculpted by ascetic monks from the Heian to Kamakura periods, remain in the caves on the islands of Matsushima Bay. The cave complex alongside the Zuigan-ji Temple approach (Zuigan-ji Cave Ruins) is a prime example — these caves served as places for bone interment and memorial services. During the medieval period, Matsushima was not a tourist destination as we know it today, but rather a sacred place believed to bring peace to the souls of the departed.
During the Kamakura period, following the fall of the Oshu Fujiwara clan, Matsushima came under the control of the Kamakura Shogunate, and the Rinzai Zen monk Hosshin Shosai revived Zuigan-ji as a Zen temple. From that point on, Zuigan-ji flourished as the “foremost Zen temple in Oshu” and assumed a central cultural role in Matsushima.
Date Masamune and the Reconstruction of Zuigan-ji (17th Century)
The most significant figure in Matsushima’s history is Date Masamune, the first lord of the Sendai Domain. In 1604, Masamune undertook a major reconstruction of the deteriorating Zuigan-ji Temple. He procured high-quality zelkova and cypress timber from Kishu (present-day Wakayama Prefecture), summoned master craftsmen from Kyoto and Negoro, and completed the project in 1609 after five years of construction.
Masamune’s extraordinary investment in Zuigan-ji was driven by more than mere religious devotion. He needed a cultural symbol to demonstrate the prestige of the Sendai Domain as the political center of the Tohoku region. The main hall (National Treasure) represents the pinnacle of Momoyama-period culture — its lavish gold-leaf sliding door paintings and intricate wood carvings express Masamune’s aesthetic sensibility and authority in full measure.
Masamune is also believed to have taken a keen interest in enhancing Matsushima’s landscape. The reconstruction of Godai-do Hall (1604) was also his undertaking. This small vermilion hall perched on a tiny island over the sea has endured as Matsushima’s iconic symbol to this day. The zodiac animal carvings on the kaerumata (frog-leg brackets) are designated an Important Cultural Property as the oldest Momoyama-period architecture in the Tohoku region.
Matsuo Basho and The Narrow Road to the Deep North — Path to Japan’s Three Scenic Views (17th–18th Century)
On May 9, 1689 (Genroku 2), the great haiku poet Matsuo Basho visited Matsushima together with his disciple Kawai Sora. Among all the destinations on his Oku no Hosomichi journey, Matsushima was one of the places Basho most eagerly anticipated. Overwhelmed by its beauty, Basho wrote: “It is the finest scenic beauty in all of Japan, in no way inferior to China’s Dongting Lake or West Lake.”
Interestingly, Basho did not compose a haiku about Matsushima — at least, none appears in Oku no Hosomichi. Some interpret this as Basho being rendered speechless by the sheer beauty, while others suggest he felt the limitations of expressing Matsushima’s splendor in words. The famous verse “Matsushima ya / Ah, Matsushima ya / Matsushima ya” mentioned at the beginning of this article is actually attributed to the later comic poet Tahara-bo, not to Basho. Nevertheless, the widespread fame of this verse helped make Matsushima known throughout Japan.
The concept of “Japan’s Three Most Scenic Views” originated in 1643, when the Confucian scholar Hayashi Kakuryo (also known as Hayashi Shunsai) described Matsushima, Amanohashidate, and Miyajima as “three extraordinary sights” in his work Nihon Kokujisekiko. Since then, Matsushima has held an unshakeable position as one of Japan’s most celebrated scenic spots, attracting countless literati and artists over the centuries.
Modern Era — The Great East Japan Earthquake and Recovery (20th–21st Century)
Following the Meiji era, Matsushima developed as Tohoku’s premier tourist destination with the advent of railway services. In 1927, it was selected as one of the New Eight Views of Japan and has been designated a Special Place of Scenic Beauty and a Prefectural Natural Park.
On March 11, 2011, the Great East Japan Earthquake struck Matsushima. The tsunami surged into Matsushima Bay, but the more than 260 islands acted as a natural breakwater, significantly reducing the tsunami’s energy. The maximum tsunami height in Matsushima Town was approximately 3 meters — considerably less damaging compared to other areas along the Sanriku Coast. However, the seaside shopping district and cruise boat terminals suffered flood damage, and some of the cedar trees lining the approach to Zuigan-ji Temple died from salt damage.
After the disaster, Matsushima was among the first areas to undergo restoration as a symbol of Tohoku’s recovery. Sightseeing boat operations resumed in 2012, and in 2018, Zuigan-ji’s decade-long “Heisei Great Restoration” was completed. Today, Matsushima has regained vibrancy surpassing pre-earthquake levels, welcoming visitors from Japan and around the world. The fact that the islands protected the town from the tsunami is still recounted today as a testament to the unseen value that natural landscapes can hold.
Highlights & Recommended Spots
Here is a curated selection of must-visit spots in Matsushima, offering a rich mix of scenic beauty, history, and cuisine.
Zuigan-ji Temple (National Treasure)
A visit to Matsushima is incomplete without stopping at Zuigan-ji Temple, which Date Masamune spent five years reconstructing. This Rinzai Zen temple of the Myoshin-ji school has both its main hall and kitchen quarters designated as National Treasures. The sliding door paintings inside the main hall are masterpieces of Momoyama-period art, featuring lavish gold-leaf fusuma paintings and exquisite carvings that are truly breathtaking. Rooms such as the “Peacock Room” and the “King Wen Room” each feature paintings with different themes, offering a rare opportunity to experience Masamune’s aesthetic vision firsthand. Admission is 700 yen for adults, and visiting hours vary by season.
Godai-do Hall
Perched on a small island off the Matsushima coast, Godai-do Hall is the most iconic structure in Matsushima. Originally built by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro in 807, the current hall was reconstructed by Date Masamune in 1604. Visitors cross a red bridge called Sukashi-bashi (see-through bridge) to reach the hall — the bridge features a lattice floor that reveals the sea below, creating a thrilling experience. This design is said to serve as a reminder to “purify yourself before worship.” The view of Matsushima Bay from Godai-do Hall is truly exceptional.
Matsushima Bay Sightseeing Cruise
A sightseeing cruise is the best way to enjoy the islands of Matsushima from the water. The approximately 50-minute bay circuit course takes you close to named islands such as Nio-jima, Kane-jima, and Sengan-jima. Onboard guides provide commentary about the origin of each island’s name and geological formation. In some seasons, you can even feed the seagulls from the boat (though restrictions may apply for environmental conservation).
- Nio Course — The classic route visiting the bay’s most representative islands (approx. 50 min)
- Oku-Matsushima Course — A route featuring the rugged open-sea scenery of Sagakei and beyond
- Shiogama to Matsushima Course — A one-way cruise from Shiogama to Matsushima
The Four Great Views — Four Scenic Overlooks of Matsushima
Matsushima’s scenery can be enjoyed from a bird’s-eye perspective at four observation points known as the “Shidaikan” (Four Great Views). These are Sokan (Otakamori), Reikan (Tomiyama), Ikan (Tamonzan), and Yukan (Ogidani), each offering a panoramic view of Matsushima Bay from a different angle. Among them, Otakamori (Sokan) is the most magnificent, providing sweeping views of both Matsushima Bay and Shiogama Bay, making it the ideal spot to take in the full expanse of Matsushima. Note that each observation point is located some distance from the Matsushima coast, so access by car is recommended.
Matsushima Cuisine — Oysters and Seafood
Matsushima is also renowned as a premier oyster-producing area. Oysters farmed in Matsushima Bay are nurtured by nutrient-rich water flowing from the mountains, resulting in small but intensely flavorful specimens. During the winter season (October to March), oyster shacks open along the coast, and all-you-can-eat grilled oyster experiences are highly popular. Visitors can also enjoy Matsushima’s famous sasa-kamaboko (bamboo leaf-shaped fish cake) and Sendai’s signature beef tongue dishes.
Nearby Attractions
Shiogama Shrine
About 15 minutes by car from Matsushima, Shiogama Shrine is a venerable shrine with over 1,200 years of history, revered as the great protector of the Tohoku region. Climbing the 202 stone steps rewards visitors with a magnificent view overlooking Shiogama Port. Visiting Shiogama Shrine alongside Matsushima provides a deeper appreciation of Miyagi Prefecture’s rich history.
Sendai City & Aoba Castle Ruins
Sendai, accessible in about 40 minutes from Matsushima via the JR Senseki Line, is the “City of Trees” founded by Date Masamune. The Aoba Castle ruins feature an equestrian statue of Masamune and offer panoramic views of the city. After experiencing Masamune’s aesthetic vision at Zuigan-ji, exploring his historical sites in Sendai makes for an excellent itinerary to deepen your understanding of Date clan culture.
Access Information
By Train
The nearest station is “Matsushima-Kaigan Station” on the JR Senseki Line, approximately 40 minutes from Sendai Station. Alternatively, it is about a 20-minute walk from “Matsushima Station” on the JR Tohoku Main Line. From Tokyo, take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Sendai Station (approx. 1 hour 30 minutes) and transfer to the Senseki Line.
By Car
It is approximately 5 minutes from the “Matsushima-Kaigan IC” exit on the Sanriku Expressway. Several municipal parking lots (from 300 yen per hour) are available along the Matsushima coast. During Golden Week and the autumn foliage season, the area can be quite congested, so arriving early is recommended.
Recommended Itinerary
Starting from Matsushima-Kaigan Station, the classic route is Godai-do Hall, then Zuigan-ji Temple, followed by a sightseeing cruise. This takes approximately 3 to 4 hours. Including lunch at an oyster shack, you can easily spend half a day. If you plan to visit all Four Great Views, a full day is recommended.
Conclusion
Matsushima is a place where scenery and history worthy of Japan’s Three Most Scenic Views are concentrated in one destination. The natural beauty woven by over 260 islands, the cultural heritage of Date Masamune, and the story of recovery from the Great East Japan Earthquake — visiting Matsushima is an experience that simultaneously immerses you in Japan’s nature, history, and the resilience of its people.
It is also fascinating to compare Matsushima with fellow “Three Scenic Views” destination Miyajima. Miyajima with its torii gate standing in the sea, and Matsushima with the scenic beauty of its countless islands — each embodies a different facet of “the beauty of Japan.”
