Nikko Toshogu Shrine: History & Must-See Highlights

Detailed explanation of the history and overview of Nikko Toshogu Shrine

 

　Table of Contents

1. History of Nikko Toshogu Shrine
2. Must-Visit Attractions in Nikko Toshogu Shrine
3. Sculptures and decorations of Nikko Toshogu Shrine
4. Religious and cultural significance of Nikko Toshogu Shrine
5. Tourist guide to Nikko Toshogu Shrine
6. Attractions around Nikko Toshogu Shrine
   

Introduction

Nikko Toshogu Shrine, in Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture, enshrines Tokugawa Ieyasu. In 1999 it was inscribed as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Shrines and Temples of Nikko.”

This article covers its history from the founding, the main buildings and carvings, and access and nearby sights.

1. History of Nikko Toshogu Shrine 

Nikko Toshogu Shrine enshrines Tokugawa Ieyasu, deified as Tosho Daigongen. The main events from its founding to the present are outlined below.

　1. The Will of Tokugawa Ieyasu and the Founding of the Shrine (1616 – 1617) 

Ieyasu died at Sunpu Castle on April 17, 1616 (Genna 2), at the age of 75. His will asked that his body be laid to rest at Mount Kuno in Suruga, his funeral held at Zojo-ji in Edo, his memorial tablet placed at Daiju-ji in Mikawa, and that after the first anniversary of his death a small hall be built on Mount Nikko to enshrine him as a deity. Accordingly, in April 1617 he was moved from Mount Kuno to Nikko and enshrined as “Tosho-sha.” The name “Toshogu” dates from 1645, when the imperial court granted the shrine that title.

Theories about why Nikko was chosen include Ieyasu’s respect for Minamoto no Yoritomo, who revered Mount Nikko, and Nikko’s position almost due north of Edo, linked to North Star worship.

　2. The Great Reconstruction of Kan’ei (1636) 

Most of the present buildings were rebuilt in the “Great Reconstruction of Kan’ei” carried out by the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, in 1636 (Kan’ei 13), the 21st anniversary of Ieyasu’s death.

The construction of 55 buildings, including Yomeimon, cost 568,000 ryo of gold among other expenses, and master builder Kora Munehiro led the works and carpenters, completing them in just one year and five months.

　3. Prosperity in the Edo Period and the Flourishing of Nikko (Late 17th Century – Early 19th Century) 

After the Great Reconstruction, shoguns made formal pilgrimages to Nikko, and daimyo, court nobles and commoners also came to worship. The shogunate improved the Nikko Kaido road, and as pilgrims increased, many guidebooks to Nikko were published.

　4. Post-Meiji Restoration Survival and World Heritage Registration (Late 19th Century – Late 20th Century) 

With the separation of Shinto and Buddhism in the early Meiji era, Toshogu and Rinnoji Temple were separated, and Toshogu has continued its rites as a Shinto shrine.

In December 1999 (Heisei 11), together with Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji Temple, it was inscribed on the World Heritage List as the “Shrines and Temples of Nikko.”

　5. Modern Preservation and Restoration (21st Century) 

Since 2003 (Heisei 15), the “Heisei Major Restoration” has conserved the shrine buildings under a long-term plan.

In March 2017 (Heisei 29), the roughly four-year restoration of Yomeimon was completed, including reapplication of lacquer and paint and repair of the metal fittings.

2. Must-Visit Attractions in Nikko Toshogu Shrine

■ Architecture and decorationThe buildings are finished in lacquer and rich colors, and the pillars and other parts carry numerous carvings. According to the shrine, these are not mere decoration but express religious beliefs, learning and thought.

■ Layout of the shrine buildingsThe buildings are arranged along approaches and stone steps that follow the natural terrain. The main buildings are introduced below in the order you reach them.

【 Overview of representative buildings and their significance 】

　・Shinkyo Bridge 

This vermilion-lacquered bridge spans the Daiya River at the entrance to the Nikko sanctuary and is a structure of Nikko Futarasan Shrine (a nationally designated Important Cultural Property).

　・stone torii gate 

The stone torii (Important Cultural Property) at the shrine entrance was dedicated in 1618 (Genna 4), the year after the enshrinement, by Kuroda Nagamasa, lord of Chikuzen Province (present-day Fukuoka Prefecture). The stones were shipped from Kyushu to Oyama and then hauled overland to Nikko by hand.

　・Five-storied pagoda 

The five-storied pagoda (Important Cultural Property) was dedicated in 1650 (Keian 3) by Sakai Tadakatsu, lord of the Obama domain in Wakasa Province; after a fire in 1815 it was rebuilt in 1818 (Bunsei 1). Carvings of the twelve zodiac animals run around the four sides under the eaves of the first tier.

On the front are the tiger, rabbit and dragon — the zodiac signs of Ieyasu, Hidetada and Iemitsu.

　・Yomeimon 

Yomeimon (National Treasure) is said to take its name from a gate of the imperial palace, and it bears more than 500 carvings of legends, children at play, sages and wise men. Because one never tires of looking at it, it is also called “Higurashi-no-mon” (the gate where one spends the day until dusk).

The plaque on the front reading “Tosho Daigongen” is said to be in the hand of Emperor Go-Mizunoo.

　・Karamon 

Karamon (National Treasure) stands just in front of the worship hall and is painted entirely white with gofun (shell white). On its roof are dragons guarding the day and the sacred beast Tsutsuga guarding the night; the Tsutsuga are said to have their legs fastened with metal rings so they cannot leave their post.

The front bears fine carvings such as “Emperor Shun Receiving His Subjects,” showing the ideal ruler of ancient China, and “Xu You and Chao Fu.”

　・Gohonsha 

The Gohonsha (National Treasure), consisting of the main hall, the ishi-no-ma and the worship hall, is the heart of Toshogu, where the annual festival and other rites are held. On either side of the worship hall are rooms once used by the shogun and by the imperial-prince abbot.

Photography is prohibited inside the building.

　・Okumiya 

Up the stone steps that lead on from the Sleeping Cat is the Okumiya (Okusha, Important Cultural Property), Ieyasu’s grave. In contrast to the splendor of Yomeimon and Karamon, its buildings are in subdued colors.

It consists of a worship hall, the cast-bronze Inukimon gate and the Hoto (treasure pagoda), and is said to have been opened to the public in 1965 (Showa 40), on the occasion of Toshogu’s 350th anniversary festival.

3. Sculptures and decorations of Nikko Toshogu Shrine 

The best-known carvings are the “Three Monkeys” and the “Sleeping Cat.”

【 Interpretation and meaning of famous sculptures 】
　・three monkeys 

Above the lintels of the Sacred Stable (Important Cultural Property) are eight panels of monkey carvings satirizing the course of a human life; monkeys were carved on the stable for the sacred horse because monkeys were traditionally believed to protect horses. The “see no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil” trio is one scene.

　・sleeping cat 

The Sleeping Cat (National Treasure), at the entrance to the Okumiya in the east corridor, is attributed to Hidari Jingoro. Dozing among peonies in the sunlight, it is also said to have been carved as a play on the name “Nikko” (sunlight).

【 Beauty in the details of craftsmanship 】

The outer walls of the corridors (National Treasure) extending left and right from Yomeimon also carry openwork carvings of flowers and birds, each cut from a single board and richly colored.

4. Religious and cultural significance of Nikko Toshogu Shrine 

■ Deity and festivals
The enshrined deity is Tokugawa Ieyasu. At the spring and autumn processions (May 18 and October 17), the “Hyakumono-Zoroe Sennin Musha Gyoretsu” parade accompanies the portable shrines, and in May more than 1,200 participants in 53 kinds of costume, including armored warriors, take part. On May 17, the day of the annual festival, horseback archery (yabusame) is also performed on the Omotesando approach.

■ The Shrines and Temples of Nikko World Heritage Site
The World Heritage Site consists of the buildings of the “two shrines and one temple” — Toshogu, Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji — and the archaeological sites surrounding them.

5. Tourist guide to Nikko Toshogu Shrine 

　・how to access 
From Asakusa Station, the Tobu Railway limited express takes about 1 hour 50 minutes to Tobu Nikko Station, and from Shinjuku Station the JR Limited Express Nikko takes about 2 hours (as of September 2026). From Tobu Nikko Station or JR Nikko Station, take the World Heritage Sightseeing Bus for about 10 minutes, get off at “Omotesando,” and walk about 5 minutes. (From the “Shinkyo” stop it is about a 15-minute walk.)

　・best season 
The autumn foliage season is especially popular, and roads in the area tend to be congested.

　・visiting tips 
The grounds have many stone steps and slopes, and a long flight of steps leads to the Okumiya, so wear comfortable walking shoes.

6. Attractions around Nikko Toshogu Shrine 

Along with Toshogu, you can try Nikko’s local specialties and visit nearby temples and shrines and the nature of Oku-Nikko.

【 Enjoy local flavors 】

　・Nikko Yuba 

Yuba is made by simmering soy milk and lifting off the film that forms on the surface.

Restaurants in Nikko serve yuba set meals, yuba sushi and yuba sweets.

　・Soba 

There are many soba restaurants around Nikko, some serving soba with mountain vegetables or sobagaki (buckwheat dumplings).

【 Other tourist spots in Nikko city 】

　・Rinnoji Temple 

Together with Toshogu, this temple makes up the “Shrines and Temples of Nikko” World Heritage Site. Its main hall, the Sanbutsu-do (Important Cultural Property), is the largest building on Mt. Nikko and one of the largest wooden buildings in eastern Japan; three 7.5-meter Buddhist statues are enshrined inside.

　
　・Lake Chuzenji　

This lake in Nikko National Park offers boating and canoeing, and hot spring inns stand along its shores.

7. summary 

The highlights of Nikko Toshogu are the buildings of the Kan’ei reconstruction such as Yomeimon, Karamon and the Gohonsha, carvings like the Three Monkeys and the Sleeping Cat, and the Okumiya, Ieyasu’s grave at the top of the stone steps.

If you have time, continue to Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji in the same precinct, or to Lake Chuzenji in Oku-Nikko.

Frequently Asked Questions