🕓 2024/9/2
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Nonbei Yokocho is a historic dining alley located in Shibuya, Tokyo, that retains the nostalgic charm of the Showa era. Formed in the late 1940s, shortly after World War II, this alley has preserved its unique atmosphere for over 70 years, despite the passage of time. As the name "Nonbei" (which means "drunkard" in Japanese) suggests, it is a gathering place for lovers of good drinks, with narrow alleys lined with small izakayas (Japanese pubs) and bars.
In this article, we will explore the overview and history of Nonbei Yokocho, as well as recommend some must-visit dining spots within this charming alley.
Nonbei Yokocho is a nostalgic drinking alley located in Shibuya, Tokyo, that retains the strong atmosphere of the Showa era, with a history spanning over 70 years. The term "Nonbei" means "drunkard," and "Yokocho" refers to a back alley. As its name suggests, it’s a gathering place for lovers of good drinks, with narrow alleys lined with small bars, izakayas (Japanese pubs), yakitori shops, and other drinking establishments.
Formed in the late 1940s, shortly after World War II, as a black market area, Nonbei Yokocho has managed to preserve its unique Showa retro charm despite the waves of redevelopment. This enduring appeal continues to attract many visitors today. Currently, around 38 establishments line the alley, most of them tiny, with just 2 to 3 tsubo (approximately 6.6 to 10 square meters) in space, offering only 5 to 10 seats.
Due to the limited space, it’s common to sit shoulder-to-shoulder with other patrons, naturally sparking conversations with the owner or fellow customers. This setting allows visitors to experience the traditional bar culture firsthand. When one bar fills up, it’s customary to move on to the next, a practice known as "bar hopping."
At night, the alley is lit by red lanterns, creating a nostalgic atmosphere that offers a sense of stepping back in time, away from the bustling city. While new establishments have opened, many long-standing, traditional bars remain, making Nonbei Yokocho a beloved spot for both locals and tourists alike.
Nonbei Yokocho is a historic drinking alley located in the heart of Shibuya, Tokyo, with its origins tracing back to the immediate post-World War II era. This alley, born out of the chaos following the war, has a long history and still retains much of its original charm. Below is an outline of its history, organized by key events.
1. Birth and Development Post-War (1945–1950s)
The beginnings of Nonbei Yokocho date back to the late 1940s, just after World War II. At that time, an informal black market began to emerge in a part of Shibuya that had escaped the worst of the war’s destruction. Simple food stalls and makeshift eateries started to line the area as people sought affordable and convenient places to eat and drink amidst widespread shortages. This marked the origin of what would later become Nonbei Yokocho.
Initially, the alley was filled with temporary stalls and makeshift structures, which gradually evolved into permanent establishments, laying the foundation for the Nonbei Yokocho that exists today.
2. Maturity During Japan’s Economic Boom (1950s–1970s)
From the 1950s through the 1970s, as Japan experienced rapid economic growth, Nonbei Yokocho also began to mature as a dining and drinking destination. During this period, a variety of izakayas (Japanese pubs) and small bars opened, becoming a beloved spot for local salarymen and workers to relax after a long day. Despite the small size of the establishments, each one offered a unique style and menu, contributing to the alley’s vibrant character.
3. Transition to Modern Times and Rise as a Tourist Destination (1980s–Present)
Starting in the 1980s, Nonbei Yokocho faced challenges due to the burst of the economic bubble and the arrival of large commercial complexes, which led to a temporary decline. However, the retro atmosphere of the alley began to be reappreciated, and it gradually gained popularity as a tourist destination. Especially from the 2000s onward, it became known as a place where foreign tourists and younger generations could experience the “real Tokyo.” Today, it continues to be cherished as a spot where visitors can enjoy the nostalgic ambiance while experiencing the vibrant nightlife of modern Tokyo.
Nonbei Yokocho in Shibuya is a retro alleyway filled with unique dining establishments. Here are some of the top recommended spots:。
■ Kibi
"Kibi" is one of the more refined dining bars in Nonbei Yokocho, blending a Showa-era retro atmosphere with modern chic. The bar is known for its daily changing menu crafted by the female owner, with the winter-exclusive "Buri Shabu" being particularly popular. The yellowtail, dipped in a broth with umeboshi (pickled plum), is rich and melts in your mouth with a burst of umami. Due to its popularity, reservations are recommended.
■ Fujima Sanchi
"Fujima Sanchi" is a cozy izakaya in Nonbei Yokocho, easily recognized by its red lantern. With only eight counter seats, the close proximity to the owner creates a friendly and approachable atmosphere. The "Nira Tama" (garlic chive omelet) is a favorite dish, made using a secret recipe passed down from the owner's father. It pairs perfectly with beer, and once you’ve tasted it, you won’t forget the flavor.
■ Bistro d'Arble Shibuya Honten
"Bistro d'Arble" is a casual bistro where you can enjoy French cuisine. The "Pâté" is particularly recommended, often enjoyed slowly with a glass of wine—a signature style among regular customers. The homey atmosphere allows you to relax and savor the French dishes at your leisure.
■ Curva
"Curva" is a small bar especially loved by soccer fans and popular among foreign tourists. Despite having only five counter seats, it’s known as a place where you can enjoy friendly conversations with the owner and passionately discuss soccer. The bar also offers cocktails like Mojitos and Ginger Highballs, with regulars often interacting with each other.
Lastly, Nonbei Yokocho is more than just a drinking alley; it’s a special place that encapsulates Shibuya’s history and culture. Starting in the chaotic post-war era, it has evolved with the times while maintaining its nostalgic Showa-era charm. The experience of sharing a drink in such close quarters creates a unique atmosphere that can’t be found anywhere else.
Each visit offers new discoveries, making it a beloved spot where many come to escape the hustle and bustle of daily life and reset their minds. If you ever visit Shibuya, be sure to take a stroll through Nonbei Yokocho.