Table of Contents
Hakone Onsen, one of Japan's most iconic hot spring destinations, is a captivating place where abundant nature, stunning landscapes, and a rich blend of history and culture converge. In this article, we aim to provide a comprehensive look at the allure of Hakone Onsen.
First, we will explain what Hakone Onsen is and provide an overview of its basic characteristics. Next, we will trace its history, from its origins in the Nara period to its development in the modern era, exploring how it has evolved over the centuries.
Discover the many charms of Hakone Onsen and use this guide to help plan your next journey.
Hakone Onsen is one of Japan's most renowned hot spring areas, located in Hakone Town, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa Prefecture. It is part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park and has been known since ancient times, with records of its existence found in historical documents from the Nara period. In addition to natural hot springs, modern drilling techniques have developed new sources, offering a wide variety of onsen experiences.
Hakone Onsen consists of 17 distinct hot spring areas collectively referred to as the “Hakone Seventeen Springs.” Each area has its own unique water qualities and atmosphere. For instance, Hakone-Yumoto Onsen is the gateway to Hakone and boasts the longest history, while Tounosawa Onsen is located along a quiet stream. Miyanoshita Onsen gained popularity among foreigners during the Meiji period, with the famous Fujiya Hotel as its centerpiece. Kowakudani Onsen is surrounded by lush forests, and Gora Onsen is celebrated for its Gozan Okuribi bonfire event and vibrant art culture.
Historically, Hakone Onsen has been a thriving destination for therapeutic baths (toji) since the Nara period. It was frequently visited by royalty, aristocrats, and literary figures. During the Edo period, it served as a key post town along the Tokaido Highway and housed the Hakone Checkpoint, making it a hub for travelers and merchants and fostering cultural exchange. In the Meiji era, the influence of Western culture increased, attracting foreign tourists. Miyanoshita’s Fujiya Hotel, established in 1878, became Japan’s first authentic resort hotel.
Hakone Onsen is easily accessible from the Tokyo metropolitan area via the Odakyu Romancecar, JR Tokaido Shinkansen, and Odawara-Atsugi Road. In addition to its hot springs, Hakone offers a wide range of attractions. Lake Ashi provides opportunities for sightseeing cruises, including a pirate ship experience. Hakone Shrine, located along the lake’s edge, is renowned as a shrine for matchmaking and good fortune. At Owakudani, visitors can observe volcanic activity and enjoy the local delicacy, black eggs (“kurotamago”).
Hakone Onsen’s water types vary greatly, including simple hot springs, sulfur springs, chloride springs, and sulfate springs. These diverse water properties allow visitors to enjoy the onsen for health benefits, relaxation, and beauty treatments. For example, simple hot springs are gentle on the skin, while sulfur springs are known for their beautifying and antibacterial effects. Chloride springs are effective for retaining body heat and alleviating cold sensitivity, while sulfate springs promote blood circulation and improve metabolism.
Hakone Onsen is a hot spring destination deeply intertwined with Japanese history, dating back to the Nara period. It began as a place of religious significance, evolved into a key transportation hub during the Edo period, and developed into an international resort in the modern era. Below are five key historical milestones that define the rich history of Hakone Onsen.
1. 757: Founding of Hakone Gongen and Discovery of Hot Springs by Manman Shonin
In 757, during the Nara period, the Buddhist monk Manman Shonin visited Hakone and founded Hakone Gongen, which is now known as Hakone Shrine. Manman Shonin was said to have experienced spiritual revelations in this area and established a temple as a center of mountain worship. It was during this time that hot springs were discovered and began being used as a place of healing for locals and travelers alike. This marked the beginning of Hakone Onsen, attracting numerous visitors seeking therapeutic baths.
2. 1619: Establishment of the Hakone Checkpoint and Development of the Hot Spring Town
In 1619, the Tokugawa Shogunate formally established the Hakone Checkpoint (Hakone Sekisho) along the Tokaido highway. This elevated Hakone's importance as a critical transportation hub between Edo (modern-day Tokyo) and Kyoto. With an influx of feudal lords, merchants, and travelers passing through, the area's hot springs became a popular spot for rest and rejuvenation. This led to the growth of inns and tea houses, transforming Hakone into a thriving hot spring town.
3. 1878: Opening of Fujiya Hotel and Evolution into an International Resort
In 1878 (Meiji 11), the Fujiya Hotel opened in Miyanoshita. It was Japan’s first full-scale Western-style resort hotel, built to cater to foreign tourists. Blending Western architecture with traditional Japanese aesthetics, the hotel became a popular retreat for dignitaries, diplomats, and prominent figures from Europe and America. The success of the Fujiya Hotel solidified Hakone's reputation as an international hot spring resort and a pioneer of modern tourism in Japan.
4. 1919: Opening of the Hakone Tozan Railway and Expansion of Tourism
In 1919, the Hakone Tozan Railway began operations, connecting Odawara to Gora. This was Japan’s first mountain railway, employing a unique rack-and-pinion system to navigate steep inclines. The railway dramatically improved access to Hakone, making it easier for people from the Tokyo metropolitan area to visit for day trips or extended stays. This period saw a significant increase in the number of hot spring inns and tourist facilities, further establishing Hakone as a major destination for leisure and relaxation.
5. 1936: Designation as Fuji-Hakone National Park and Promotion of Conservation
In 1936, the Hakone area was designated as part of Fuji-Hakone National Park (now Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park), one of Japan's first national parks. This designation aimed to preserve the region’s abundant natural beauty and landscapes. The status as a national park helped curb overdevelopment and fostered environmental conservation efforts. Simultaneously, the park designation enhanced Hakone’s appeal, drawing tourists from across Japan and abroad. Hakone Onsen thus established itself as a sustainable tourist destination blending natural and cultural heritage.
6. 2015: Volcanic Activity on Mount Hakone and Its Impact on Tourism
In 2015, volcanic activity intensified around the Owakudani area of Mount Hakone, with increased volcanic earthquakes and steam emissions being observed. The Japan Meteorological Agency raised the volcanic alert level, and access to the Owakudani region was restricted. Although concerns about the impact on tourism arose, local governments and the tourism industry swiftly provided accurate information and implemented robust safety measures. These efforts successfully ensured the safety of visitors while preserving Hakone Onsen’s appeal and facilitating the recovery of tourist numbers.
Hakone Onsen is not only known for its diverse hot springs but also for its stunning natural beauty and numerous historical and cultural attractions. Below are some must-visit highlights when exploring Hakone Onsen.
■ Hakone-Yumoto Onsen Town
Hakone-Yumoto Onsen Town is a historic gateway to Hakone, renowned as the oldest hot spring area in the region with a history of over 1,200 years, dating back to its opening during the Nara period. Centered around Hakone-Yumoto Station, this area boasts traditional inns (ryokan), modern hotels, and day-use hot spring facilities, offering easy access to onsen experiences for visitors.
The main street, Yumoto Onsen Street, is lined with souvenir shops and restaurants offering local specialties such as onsen manju (steamed buns filled with sweet red bean paste) and yosegi-zaiku (traditional Hakone marquetry). Yosegi-zaiku, a famous handicraft of the region, is highly regarded for its intricate wooden inlays and is a popular purchase among both domestic and international visitors.
Historical landmarks are also abundant, including inns and bridges dating back to the Meiji era. Scenic spots such as the Ajisai Bridge over the Hayakawa River and views of Yusakayama provide a tranquil atmosphere, making them ideal for photography. Throughout the year, various events are held, such as the summer Hakone Daimyo Procession and the autumn Hakone-Yumoto Onsen Festival, offering opportunities to experience local culture.
■ Owakudani
Owakudani is a volcanic valley formed about 3,000 years ago by an eruption of Mount Hakone, making it a fascinating geological site. Visitors are captivated by the sight of white plumes of volcanic steam rising from the mountain slopes, accompanied by the unique smell of sulfur.
The valley's signature delicacy is kuro tamago (black eggs), hard-boiled in hot spring water rich in sulfur and iron, which turn the eggshells black. According to local lore, eating one kuro tamago is said to extend your life by seven years. These eggs are immensely popular among tourists, both as a snack and as a souvenir. Gift shops in the area also sell related items, such as kuro tamago-themed snacks and merchandise.
From the observation deck, visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of Mount Fuji on clear days. The Owakudani Nature Trail allows close-up views of fumaroles and geothermal activity, making it a unique experience for nature enthusiasts. However, due to volcanic gas emissions and activity, access may be restricted, so it’s recommended to check the latest information before visiting.
＞＞ Click here for details on Owakudani
■ Lake Ashi (Ashinoko)
Lake Ashi, a caldera lake formed approximately 3,000 years ago by volcanic activity, is one of Hakone's most iconic landscapes. The lake’s crystal-clear waters reflect the surrounding mountains and sky, creating a serene and picturesque setting. On clear days, visitors can enjoy stunning views of Mount Fuji over the lake, a scene that continues to attract countless tourists.
The lake offers sightseeing cruises via the Hakone Pirate Ship and Hakone Sightseeing Ship, allowing passengers to leisurely admire the natural scenery. The pirate ships, with their elaborate designs, provide a unique and entertaining way to experience the lake. The cruise routes connect Motohakone Port, Hakone-machi Port, and Togendai Port, with a journey time of 30 to 40 minutes.
■ Hakone Shrine
Hakone Shrine, located on the shores of Lake Ashi, is a historic shrine said to have been established in 757 (Tenpyo-Hoji 1). The shrine venerates Mount Hakone (comprising Mount Kami, Mount Komagatake, and Mount Kanmuri) as its sacred deity and has long been revered as the protector of Hakone.
The shrine has been a place of worship for many historical figures, including Minamoto no Yoritomo and Tokugawa Ieyasu, and was particularly significant during the Sengoku and Edo periods for prayers for victory in battle and national peace. During the Edo period, travelers along the Tokaido highway often stopped to pray for safe journeys, and even today, the shrine is believed to bestow blessings for traffic safety and personal fulfillment.
The Peace Torii (Heiwa no Torii), a striking red torii gate standing in the waters of Lake Ashi, is a famous landmark. Its reflection on the lake’s surface creates a stunning scene, especially during the morning mist or at sunset, making it a popular photography spot. The shrine grounds, surrounded by centuries-old cedar trees, exude a sacred and solemn atmosphere. Along the stone steps leading to the shrine, visitors can also find the Kuzuryu Shrine Shingu, a revered site for blessings related to love and relationships.
■ The Hakone Open-Air Museum
Opened in 1969, the Hakone Open-Air Museum is Japan’s first outdoor museum, located in Ninotaira, Hakone Town. The museum spans a vast 70,000 square meters and showcases approximately 120 sculptures by renowned Japanese and international artists. Blending art with nature, visitors can enjoy sculptures against the backdrop of Hakone’s changing seasons. The collection includes works by renowned artists such as Henry Moore, Auguste Rodin, and others.
The museum’s Picasso Pavilion houses about 300 of Pablo Picasso's works, including paintings, prints, ceramics, and glass art. These pieces, donated by Picasso’s daughter, Maya, offer a deep insight into his versatile artistic expression.
For families, the museum features the popular Forest of Net playground, where children can enjoy climbing on giant net structures. Visitors can also relax in the on-site foot bath using hot spring water, offering a refreshing break during the museum tour.
■ The Hakone Glass Forest Museum
The Hakone Glass Forest Museum, opened in 1996, is dedicated to glass art and located in the Sengokuhara area of Hakone. The museum features a garden and buildings inspired by medieval Venetian aesthetics, creating a European atmosphere.
The museum’s exhibits include masterpieces of Venetian glass from the 15th to 19th centuries, as well as contemporary glass artworks. The delicate and exquisite glassworks demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship and artistic beauty, captivating visitors.
In the garden, glass art installations, such as the Crystal Glass Arch made of approximately 160,000 crystal pieces, sparkle brilliantly under sunlight. The Corridor of Light, illuminated at night, provides a magical and romantic experience.
■ Hakone Tozan Railway
The Hakone Tozan Railway is a mountain railway line connecting Hakone-Yumoto Station in Odawara City to Gora Station in Hakone Town, spanning approximately 8.9 kilometers. Opened in 1919, it remains Japan’s only full-fledged mountain railway. The line is renowned for its steep gradients and switchback system, which enables trains to navigate the mountainous terrain by alternating between forward and reverse movements. Key switchback points include Deyama Signal Station, Ohiradai Station, and Kami-Ohiradai Signal Station.
The railway offers stunning views of nature, including the Hayakawa Valley and seasonal landscapes such as fresh greenery in spring, lush foliage in summer, colorful autumn leaves, and snow-covered scenery in winter. From mid-June to mid-July, the route is adorned with approximately 10,000 hydrangeas, attracting visitors who enjoy the railway’s nickname, the Hydrangea Train.
■ NARAYA CAFE
NARAYA CAFE, located in Miyanoshita, Hakone, is a charming café built on the site of the former Naraya Ryokan, a historic inn. The café’s design combines traditional Japanese elements with modern aesthetics, creating a unique and welcoming atmosphere.
The café features a terrace with a free foot bath, where visitors can relax while enjoying the scenic beauty of Hakone. The menu includes sweets and drinks made from local ingredients, with popular items such as Foot Bath Manju and Homemade Ginger Ale.
The café also houses a gallery space showcasing works by local artists and craftspeople. Visitors can browse and purchase unique items, making it a memorable stop during their Hakone trip.
Hakone is home to a wide variety of hot spring facilities, each offering its own unique charm. Below are five highly recommended hot spring establishments to consider for your visit.
■ Tenseien
Tenseien, located in Hakone-Yumoto, is a large-scale hot spring facility that accommodates both day-use visitors and overnight guests. Its beautiful garden, complete with historic waterfalls, creates a tranquil and picturesque atmosphere. The rooftop Sky Open-Air Bath provides a panoramic view of the Hakone mountains, and at night, you can soak while gazing at the starry sky.
The hot spring water is classified as alkaline simple springs, which are gentle on the skin and known for their beautifying effects. The facility also features a sauna, stone bath, spa treatments, and dining options, offering relaxation and entertainment in one location. Tenseien is conveniently accessible, just a 12-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station on the Hakone Tozan Railway, with a complimentary shuttle bus also available.
■ Tenzan Tohjigyo
Tenzan Tohjigyo, located in the Hakone-Yumoto area, is a day-use hot spring facility where visitors can enjoy a serene time surrounded by nature. Its traditional Japanese architecture harmonizes beautifully with a landscaped garden, creating a peaceful and elegant environment.
The facility offers a variety of open-air baths, indoor baths, and saunas, each designed with unique features. The water, classified as sodium/calcium-chloride sulfate springs, is reputed to help alleviate nerve pain, muscle pain, and cold sensitivity. Visitors can also enjoy a meal at the on-site restaurant, which serves handmade soba noodles and seasonal dishes.
■ Hakone Kowakien Yunessun
Hakone Kowakien Yunessun is a large hot spring theme park in the Kowakudani area of Hakone. It features two distinct zones: Yunessun, where visitors wear swimsuits to enjoy themed baths, and Mori no Yu, a traditional Japanese-style onsen for more relaxing experiences.
In the Yunessun area, you’ll find unique baths such as wine baths, coffee baths, green tea baths, and sake baths, making it a fun destination for families and couples alike. There are also indoor and outdoor pools, as well as water slides, allowing visitors to enjoy the facilities regardless of the weather.
The Mori no Yu area offers a more tranquil setting with traditional open-air baths, saunas, and stone baths, perfect for unwinding in a peaceful atmosphere.
■ Gora Kadan
Located in Gora Onsen, Gora Kadan is a luxury ryokan that was once the summer villa of the Kan’in-no-miya Imperial Family. This prestigious establishment combines traditional Japanese architecture with a beautifully landscaped garden to create an elegant retreat. Some guest rooms feature private open-air baths with natural hot spring water, providing a serene and intimate setting.
The spring water is sodium chloride, known for its excellent heat retention properties and its ability to relieve fatigue. Guests can also indulge in exquisite kaiseki cuisine made from seasonal ingredients, offering a feast for both the eyes and the palate. Gora Kadan is conveniently located just a 5-minute walk from Gora Station on the Hakone Tozan Railway.
■ Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu
Opened in 2017, Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu is a modern hot spring resort hotel with a minimalist design. Each guest room comes with a private open-air bath, allowing guests to enjoy stunning views of Hakone's natural surroundings in complete privacy. The large public baths include infinity baths that overlook the beautiful seasonal landscapes of the area.
The resort features two types of spring water: alkaline simple springs and sodium chloride sulfate springs, both offering a range of health and beauty benefits. Additional amenities include spa treatments, a lounge, and a footbath café, making it an ideal place to unwind. The hotel is conveniently located near the Horai-en Bus Stop on the Hakone Tozan Bus line.
■ Kinnotake Tonosawa
Kinnotake Tonosawa is a luxurious all-suite ryokan located in the Tonosawa Onsen area. Designed as an adults-only retreat, it provides a serene and opulent atmosphere. Each suite features a private open-air bath with natural hot spring water, surrounded by lush greenery, offering a tranquil and secluded experience.
The alkaline simple spring water is celebrated for its beautifying properties, leaving the skin soft and smooth. The ryokan’s refined modern Japanese interiors and use of natural materials enhance the sophisticated ambiance. Guests can enjoy creative kaiseki cuisine made from local ingredients. A shuttle service from Hakone-Yumoto Station (reservation required) ensures easy access.
Hakone Onsen is a quintessential Japanese hot spring destination where history, nature, and culture intertwine. Loved by visitors for centuries, it continues to captivate with its timeless appeal. Its diverse range of hot springs, stunning seasonal landscapes, and rich historical and cultural attractions offer endless opportunities for discovery and enjoyment.
Using this guide, immerse yourself in the unique charm of Hakone Onsen. Experience the tradition, nature, and hospitality that define this exceptional destination, and create memories that will stay with you for a lifetime.