Kinosaki Onsen: A Detailed Overview of Its History and Attractions

 

　Table of Contents:

1. Overview of Kinosaki Onsen
2. History of Kinosaki Onsen
3. Highlights of Kinosaki Onsen
   

Introduction

Kinosaki Onsen is one of Japan’s most famous hot spring resorts, with over 1,300 years of history. Located in Toyooka City, Hyogo Prefecture, this onsen town traces its origins back to the Nara period (710-794). Over the centuries, Kinosaki Onsen has flourished culturally and continues to be a beloved destination for both domestic and international visitors.

The town’s charm lies in its harmonious blend of rich onsen culture and beautiful natural surroundings, as well as its traditional experiences, such as the famous "Soto-yu Meguri" (a tour of the seven public bathhouses). Additionally, Kinosaki Onsen's streets are lined with historical buildings and cultural sites, offering visitors a variety of attractions to enjoy.

In this article, we will provide an in-depth introduction to Kinosaki Onsen, exploring its overview, history, and the must-see attractions that make it a unique destination.

1. Overview of Kinosaki Onsen 

Kinosaki Onsen is a historic hot spring town located in northern Hyogo Prefecture, within the city of Toyooka, and boasts over 1,300 years of history. The origins of the onsen are traced back to 717 AD, during the Nara period, with a legend that tells of a monk named Dochi Shonin, who brought forth the hot springs after completing 1,000 days of ascetic practice.

During the Edo period, Kinosaki Onsen was referred to as "Kainai Daiichisen," meaning the "Number One Hot Spring in the Land." Even today, it remains a beloved destination for both domestic and international visitors. Throughout its history, it has attracted many politicians and literary figures. Notably, the famous Japanese author Naoya Shiga spent time here, using the serene setting as inspiration for his short story At Kinosaki. This piece beautifully captures the tranquil scenery of Kinosaki Onsen and reflects his deep contemplation of nature.

One of the defining features of Kinosaki Onsen is the "Soto-yu Meguri," a delightful experience of touring seven public bathhouses. Each bathhouse has its own unique history and character, allowing visitors to enjoy the variety of hot springs while strolling through the town in traditional yukata and wooden geta sandals. Some of the most famous bathhouses include "Kouno-yu" and "Goshono-yu," each offering different themes to relax and rejuvenate their visitors.

In addition to its hot springs, the town features nostalgic entertainment venues, such as retro game arcades where visitors can enjoy traditional games like shateki (shooting gallery) and smart ball, which evoke the atmosphere of the Showa era. A prime example is "Taniguchiya Game Arcade," established in 1954. The sight of visitors in yukata enjoying these old-fashioned games is reminiscent of the vibrant atmosphere of onsen towns in the past.

The town itself exudes a charming and picturesque atmosphere, with its streets lined with traditional inns, cafes, and food stalls offering a variety of local delicacies. The fusion of historical architecture and beautiful natural surroundings creates an unforgettable experience. Particularly in the winter, visitors can indulge in regional gourmet dishes such as "Matsuba Crab," freshly caught from the Sea of Japan, and the renowned "Tajima Beef."

2. History of Kinosaki Onsen 

Below is a chronological summary of Kinosaki Onsen's history, highlighting major events and their historical context.

　1. 717 AD: The Founding of Kinosaki Onsen 

Image is for illustration purposes. 

The history of Kinosaki Onsen dates back to 717 AD during the Nara period, when it was founded by the monk Dochi Shonin. According to legend, Dochi Shonin visited this area and, following a divine revelation from Shisho Myojin, undertook 1,000 days of ascetic practice to help people suffering from severe illnesses. At the end of his prayers, a sacred hot spring emerged, marking the beginning of Kinosaki Onsen. The spring that emerged is known today as "Mandara-yu." Following this event, Onsenji Temple was also established, laying the foundation for Kinosaki Onsen as a hot spring resort.

　2. Edo Period: Flourishing as "Kainai Daiichisen" (The Number One Hot Spring in the Land) 

Image is for illustration purposes. 

During the Edo period, Kinosaki Onsen was highly regarded as "Kainai Daiichisen" (The Number One Hot Spring in the Land), solidifying its position as one of Japan's leading hot spring destinations. In the hot spring rankings of the time, Kinosaki was highly valued, ranking just behind Arima Onsen as the "sekiwake" (junior champion) of the western region. The hot spring town was bustling with visitors seeking therapeutic baths, and many establishments offered local cuisine, including dishes like nabe-yaki (hot pot), zenzai (sweet red bean soup), and soba (buckwheat noodles), which contributed to the development of the region’s food culture alongside its onsen.

　3. 1917: Naoya Shiga’s At Kinosaki 

image is for illustration purposes. 

In 1917, during the Taisho period, the famous writer Naoya Shiga visited Kinosaki Onsen, where he wrote his short story At Kinosaki (Kinosaki ni te). This work reflects on themes of life and death against the serene backdrop of Kinosaki’s nature and quiet onsen town. Shiga deeply loved the area, and his visit inspired other writers and intellectuals to come to Kinosaki. As a result, the town came to be known for its literary significance, and many monuments dedicated to famous authors still stand throughout Kinosaki Onsen today.

　4. 1925: The Great Kanto Earthquake 

出展： ジャパンアーカイブズ 

On May 23, 1925, the Great Kanto Earthquake (also known as the Kita-Tajima Earthquake) caused devastating damage to Kinosaki Onsen. The earthquake, measuring 6.8 on the Richter scale, struck Toyooka City and Kinosaki Town particularly hard. In Kinosaki Onsen, approximately 80% of the town was destroyed by fire, with many casualties, particularly women, who were cooking at the time and trapped beneath collapsing buildings. The disaster claimed 283 lives, and 575 buildings were burned to the ground.

In the aftermath of the earthquake, the town embarked on a large-scale reconstruction plan. This included rebuilding the public bathhouses (Soto-yu), repairing roads and bridges, and promoting fire-resistant construction methods. By 1935, the town had successfully restored its onsen-based economy, centered around its public bathhouses, and began to regain its former prosperity.

　5. 1963: Designation as San’in Kaigan National Park 

出展： きのさき温泉観光協会　公式サイト

In 1963, the entire coastal region around Kinosaki Onsen was designated as San’in Kaigan National Park. This region was recognized not only for its natural beauty but also for the long history and cultural value of its onsen. With this designation, Kinosaki Onsen developed further as a destination where nature and culture harmoniously coexist, attracting even more visitors to its unique blend of hot spring tradition and stunning landscapes.

3. Highlights of Kinosaki Onsen 

Kinosaki Onsen offers a variety of attractions where visitors can enjoy its rich history, culture, and natural beauty. Below, we introduce some of the main spots you should visit.

　■ Soto-yu Meguri (Tour of Public Bathhouses) 

The Soto-yu Meguri is a traditional experience where visitors can enjoy the seven distinctive public bathhouses in Kinosaki Onsen. Each bathhouse has its own unique characteristics, history, and benefits.

 1. Kouno-yu (Hot Spring of the Stork)

Kouno-yu is the oldest bathhouse in Kinosaki Onsen and is named after a legend that a stork healed its wounds in this hot spring over 1,400 years ago. The name "Kouno-yu" comes from this stork legend, and it is loved by many as the "hot spring that brings happiness." It has a calm, rustic atmosphere and is located in a quiet area a little away from the center of the onsen town. One of its highlights is the garden open-air bath, where visitors can relax while enjoying seasonal views, particularly the lush green garden that surrounds the bath.

 2. Goshono-yu

Goshono-yu gets its name from the fact that Princess Ankamon-in, the elder sister of Emperor Go-Horikawa, is said to have bathed here. In 2020, it underwent extensive renovations and reopened as a full open-air bathhouse. The interior is designed to mimic the natural beauty of Tajima, allowing visitors to enjoy the changing seasons. You can take in the views of a waterfall while bathing, and there is also a popular mist sauna for women. Known as the "beauty bath," Goshono-yu is especially favored by female visitors.

 3. Mandara-yu

Mandara-yu is one of the seven Soto-yu bathhouses, and legend says that it was brought forth after the ascetic training of Kinosaki Onsen's founder, Dochi Shonin. It is also called "The Bath of One Lifetime, One Wish." The bathhouse’s building features a traditional kara-hafu (undulating gable) style, offering a serene atmosphere where visitors can relax in peace. The historical significance and quiet setting make it a perfect place to unwind.

　■ Kinosaki Ropeway and Onsenji Temple 

The Kinosaki Onsen Ropeway offers a scenic aerial journey from the hot spring town to the summit of Mount Daishi. The ropeway stops at the “Onsenji Temple” station, a temple with over 1,300 years of history. In the past, this temple was the first place visitors would pray before entering the hot springs in Kinosaki, where they would receive a ladle to perform their healing baths.

From the summit station, you can enjoy panoramic views of the entire Kinosaki Onsen town and the Sea of Japan. This viewpoint is highly regarded, having earned a one-star rating in the Michelin Green Guide.

　■ Kinosaki Straw Craft Museum 

Kinosaki’s traditional craft, mugiwara zaiku (straw craft), has a history of about 300 years. This craft involves using brightly dyed straw to create intricate designs. At the Kinosaki Straw Craft Museum, visitors can learn about the history and techniques of this traditional craft, and even try their hand at making their own pieces. Recognized as a Hyogo Prefecture traditional craft, straw craft items such as kiribako (paulownia wood boxes) and accessories are on display.

　■ Gokurakuji Temple 

Located near Mandara-yu, Gokurakuji Temple is a serene Buddhist temple in Kinosaki Onsen. The temple features a beautiful dry landscape rock garden called "Seikan Tei," offering a tranquil retreat for visitors. Additionally, guests can arrange to hear sermons from the temple’s head monk or experience zazen (seated meditation), providing a unique opportunity to engage with Zen Buddhist practices.

　■ Kiyamachi Koji

Kiyamachi Koji is a stylish rest area located in the center of Kinosaki Onsen, themed around the concept of "Japanese liveliness." Opened in 2008, this area is a popular stop for tourists strolling through the onsen town.

Lined with shops offering local delicacies and sweets, it’s a great place to relax after a bath. You can enjoy regional treats like pudding, vinegar drinks, and handmade rice crackers. There are also shops selling goods made from locally sourced wood and relaxation salons. Kiyamachi Koji also has resting spaces and plazas where visitors can take a break and enjoy the charming atmosphere.

　■ Genbudo Park 

Genbudo Park is a natural wonder where you can marvel at the spectacular formations of "Genbudo," a cave created by volcanic activity around 1.6 million years ago. The park is famous for its columnar joints formed from cooling lava, creating impressive, towering rock formations. In addition to Genbudo, the park also features caves such as "Seiryudo," "Byakkodo," "Southern Suzaku-do," and "Northern Suzaku-do," each offering unique geological features. The Genbudo Museum also exhibits various minerals and fossils, providing an educational experience about the power of nature.

　■  Kinosaki Literature Museum  

The Kinosaki Literature Museum is a must-visit for literature enthusiasts, featuring works and exhibits related to authors who were inspired by Kinosaki Onsen. The museum highlights Naoya Shiga’s famous short story At Kinosaki (Kinosaki ni te), written during his stay for hot spring therapy. The museum also includes exhibits on the Shirakaba literary movement, making it an ideal destination for those interested in Japan’s literary history.

 In Conclusion 

In conclusion, Kinosaki Onsen, with its long history and rich cultural background, has continuously provided healing and inspiration to its visitors. The experience of touring the Soto-yu bathhouses, the historical architecture, the beautiful natural landscapes, and the unique atmosphere of the onsen town create a charm that cannot be found anywhere else. Beyond the hot springs, Kinosaki also offers retro game arcades and traditional crafts, providing a wide variety of experiences that can be enjoyed by people of all ages.

Kinosaki Onsen showcases different aspects of its beauty with each passing season, offering new discoveries and moving experiences no matter how many times you visit. We invite you to come and experience the healing and cultural journey that awaits you at Kinosaki Onsen.