🕓 2024/10/20
#Hot Springs
A Detailed Guide to the History and Overview of Kinosaki Onsen
Table of Contents
Introduction
Kinosaki Onsen is one of Japan’s premier hot spring destinations with a history spanning over 1,300 years, located in Toyooka City, Hyogo Prefecture. Tracing its origins back to the Nara period, this hot spring town has enjoyed rich cultural development throughout its long history and is beloved by tourists from both Japan and abroad.
Its appeal lies in the harmony of rich hot spring culture and natural environment, as well as traditional experiences such as “Sotoyu Meguri” (public bathhouse hopping). The streets of Kinosaki Onsen are dotted with numerous spots where visitors can experience historical buildings and culture, providing a diverse range of enjoyments for all who visit.In this article, we provide a detailed introduction to the overview, history, and highlights of Kinosaki Onsen.
Overview of Kinosaki Onsen
Kinosaki Onsen is a historic hot spring town located in northern Hyogo Prefecture, in Toyooka City, with a history spanning over 1,300 years. Its origins date back to 717 during the Nara period, when the monk Dochi Shonin is said to have caused hot spring water to gush forth after 1,000 days of ascetic practice.
During the Edo period, it was called “Kainai Daiichi-sen” (the finest hot spring in the land), and even today it is beloved by many tourists from both Japan and abroad.Historically, it was favored by politicians and literary figures, and renowned writers such as Shiga Naoya engaged in creative work here. Shiga Naoya’s short story “At Kinosaki” depicts the quiet scenery of Kinosaki Onsen and his reflections on nature.
One of the distinctive features of Kinosaki Onsen is the “Sotoyu Meguri” experience, where visitors hop between seven public bathhouses. Each of these bathhouses has its own unique history and character, and visitors can enjoy the bath-hopping experience while wearing yukata (light cotton kimono) and clacking along in wooden geta sandals. Notable bathhouses include “Kono-yu” and “Gosho-no-yu,” with each offering different themes to soothe visitors.
The hot spring town also features retro amusement halls where visitors can enjoy old-fashioned games like target shooting and Smart Ball, evoking the nostalgic atmosphere of the Showa era. “Taniguchiya Game Hall,” in particular, was established in 1954 and is a traditional amusement spot unique to hot spring towns, where the sight of people in yukata enjoying these games brings back memories of old hot spring town scenes.
The hot spring town itself features charming streets, with ryokan (traditional inns), cafes, and street food spots in abundance, blending historical buildings with beautiful natural surroundings. During winter in particular, visitors can enjoy local gourmet delights such as “Matsuba Crab” (snow crab) from the Sea of Japan and “Tajima Beef.”
History of Kinosaki Onsen
Here is a summary of the history of Kinosaki Onsen organized by chronological period. Below are the major events and their historical context.
1. 717: The Opening of Kinosaki Onsen
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The history of Kinosaki Onsen dates back to 717 during the Nara period, attributed to the monk Dochi Shonin. Dochi Shonin visited this land and, having received a divine revelation from the Four Guardian Deities to save people suffering from incurable diseases, undertook 1,000 days of ascetic practice. Upon completion of this practice, a sacred hot spring gushed forth, marking the beginning of Kinosaki Onsen. The spring that emerged is known today as “Mandara-yu,” and Onsenji Temple was subsequently built, establishing the foundation of the hot spring town.
2. Edo Period: Thriving as “The Finest Hot Spring in the Land”
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During the Edo period, Kinosaki Onsen was called “Kainai Daiichi-sen” (the finest hot spring in the land), establishing its status as one of the nation’s most prominent hot spring destinations. In the hot spring rankings, it received high acclaim as the western sekiwake (second-highest rank), following Arima Onsen. The town was bustling with visitors coming for toji (hot spring therapy), and many restaurants offered nabeyaki (hot pot), zenzai (sweet red bean soup), and soba noodles, with food culture developing alongside the hot springs.
3. 1917: Shiga Naoya’s “At Kinosaki”
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The literary master Shiga Naoya visited Kinosaki Onsen in 1917, during the Taisho era, and wrote his short story “At Kinosaki” there. This work depicts the quiet nature and hot spring town atmosphere of Kinosaki as a backdrop for exploring the human perspective on life and death. Shiga Naoya deeply loved this hot spring town, and other literary figures followed his lead in visiting Kinosaki. Kinosaki came to be known as a “town of literature,” and many literary monuments remain throughout the town today.
4. 1925: The Kita-Tajima Earthquake
Source: Japan Archives
The Kita-Tajima Earthquake that struck on May 23, 1925, brought devastating damage to Kinosaki Onsen. With a magnitude of 6.8, the earthquake caused particularly severe damage in Toyooka City and Kinosaki Town. In Kinosaki Onsen, 80% of the town was completely destroyed by fire. Since it occurred at lunchtime, many women were caught in collapsing buildings while cooking. A total of 283 people lost their lives in the town, and 575 buildings were completely burned.
After the earthquake, the town launched large-scale reconstruction plans. Public bathhouses were rebuilt, roads and bridges were repaired, and fireproof construction was promoted. By around 1935, the infrastructure of Kinosaki Onsen, centered on its public bathhouses, was largely restored, and the entire town regained its vitality.
5. 1963: Elevated to San’in Kaigan National Park
Source: Kinosaki Onsen Tourism Association Official Website
In 1963, the San’in Coast area including Kinosaki Onsen was designated as San’in Kaigan National Park. The region was recognized not only for its natural beauty but also for its long history as a hot spring destination and its cultural value, and was protected as a national park. As a result, Kinosaki Onsen developed further as a tourist destination where nature and culture exist in harmony, attracting many visitors.
Highlights of Kinosaki Onsen
Kinosaki Onsen offers a variety of tourist spots where you can enjoy public bathhouse hopping, history, culture, and nature. Below is a detailed introduction to the must-visit highlights.
■ Sotoyu Meguri (Public Bathhouse Hopping)
The Sotoyu Meguri of Kinosaki Onsen is a traditional experience where you can enjoy seven distinctive public bathhouses. Each has its own unique features, history, and spiritual benefits.
1. Kono-yu
Kono-yu is known as the oldest public bathhouse in Kinosaki Onsen, with a legend dating back approximately 1,400 years about a stork that healed its wounds here. The name of the hot spring derives from this legend, and it is beloved as “the bath that brings happiness.” Characterized by its quiet and rustic atmosphere, it is situated in a tranquil area slightly removed from the center of the hot spring town, with a garden open-air bath as one of its main attractions. The open-air bath surrounded by nature offers different scenery with each season, and the lush garden is particularly soothing for visitors.
2. Gosho-no-yu
Gosho-no-yu was named after the legend that Princess Ankamon-in, the elder sister of Emperor Go-Horikawa, bathed here. After extensive renovations in 2020, it was reborn as a fully open-air bath. The facility features plantings designed to evoke the natural landscape of Tajima, allowing visitors to enjoy seasonal scenery throughout the year. Visitors can enjoy bathing while viewing a waterfall, and a mist sauna popular with women is also available, making it particularly well-known as the “Bath of Beauty” among female visitors.
3. Mandara-yu
Mandara-yu is the hot spring said to have gushed forth after the ascetic practice of Dochi Shonin, the founder of Kinosaki Onsen. It is one of the seven public bathhouses of Kinosaki Onsen and is also known as “the bath of one lifetime, one wish.” The building features a distinctive karahafu (cusped gable) style, and visitors can spend a peaceful and calming time in its serene atmosphere. This bathhouse offers a quiet bathing experience together with its historical background.
■ Kinosaki Ropeway and Onsenji Temple
The Kinosaki Onsen Ropeway offers an aerial stroll from the hot spring town to the summit of Mt. Daishi. The ropeway stops midway at the station for Onsenji Temple, which has a 1,300-year history. This temple was traditionally the first place that visitors to Kinosaki would go to worship before entering the baths, where they would receive a ladle for their hot spring therapy..
From the summit station, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Kinosaki Onsen and the Sea of Japan, and it is also known as a scenic spot that earned one star in the Michelin Green Guide.
■ Kinosaki Straw Craft Museum
“Mugiwara Zaiku” (straw craft) is a traditional Kinosaki craft with approximately 300 years of history, using vividly dyed straw to create intricate designs. At the Kinosaki Straw Craft Museum, visitors can learn about the history and techniques of this craft and even try their hand at making their own straw craft. This tradition, continuing since the Edo period, has been designated as a Hyogo Prefecture traditional craft, and a variety of works, from paulownia boxes to accessories, are on display.
■ Gokurakuji Temple
Located near Mandara-yu, Gokurakuji Temple is a serene Buddhist temple in Kinosaki Onsen. The temple features a dry landscape garden called “Seikan-tei,” which provides a calming atmosphere that soothes all who visit. With advance reservation, visitors can also experience sermons and Zen meditation sessions with the head priest, offering a valuable opportunity to touch the world of Zen.
■ Kiyamachi-koji
Kiyamachi-koji is located in the center of Kinosaki Onsen and is a stylish rest spot with the theme of “the liveliness of Japanese harmony.” Opened in 2008, this area is conveniently located for a stop during a stroll through the hot spring town, making it popular with tourists.
The alley is lined with shops offering gourmet food and sweets made with local ingredients, making it an ideal spot for relaxation after a bath. You can enjoy local specialties such as pudding, vinegar drinks, and handmade rice crackers, as well as browse a general store selling crafts made from locally sourced wood and visit a relaxation salon. Kiyamachi-koji also features rest areas and open spaces, providing a relaxing environment.
■ Genbudo Park
Genbudo Park is a place where you can enjoy the magnificent natural formations created by volcanic activity 1.6 million years ago, centered around the “Genbudo” cave. The distinctive columnar jointing formed by cooled lava is a characteristic feature, with its beautiful rock walls on an overwhelming scale. Within the park, there are also caves such as “Seiryudo,” “Byakkodo,” “Minami-Suzakudo,” and “Kita-Suzakudo,” offering plenty to see. The Genbudo Museum also displays minerals and fossils, providing an educational experience about the power of nature.
■ Kinosaki Literary Museum 
The “Kinosaki Literary Museum” is a spot where visitors can enjoy the works and exhibitions of writers who have connections to Kinosaki Onsen. In particular, Shiga Naoya’s short story “At Kinosaki” was written during his stay for hot spring therapy, offering a glimpse into the literary side of Kinosaki Onsen. The museum also features exhibitions related to writers of the Shirakaba (White Birch) school, making it an irresistible destination for literature enthusiasts.
Summary
In conclusion, Kinosaki Onsen has continued to provide healing and inspiration to visitors against the backdrop of its long history and rich culture. The public bathhouse hopping, historical buildings, nature-rich scenery, and the unique charm of a hot spring town offer an experience that cannot be found elsewhere. With retro amusement halls, traditional crafts, and more, there are diverse experiences available for all generations.
Kinosaki Onsen shows a different face with each season, so no matter how many times you visit, new discoveries and emotions await. Be sure to experience a journey of healing and culture at Kinosaki Onsen for yourself.