🕓 2025/1/6
＃観光地
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Nestled in the Sagano area of Kyoto, Nonomiya Shrine is a mystical Shinto shrine that has carried the legacy of the Heian period right into the modern age. It is known as the place where the Saiō—an imperial princess who served as the Emperor’s representative—would purify herself before proceeding to the Ise Grand Shrine. Beyond its venerable heritage, Nonomiya Shrine also possesses significant literary value, having been featured in The Tale of Genji.
In this article, we will thoroughly introduce the shrine’s background, its history, and its must-see features, showcasing its many charms without leaving anything out. Be sure to take note of these details before your visit, and let them serve as a helpful guide for exploring Kyoto.
Nonomiya Shrine (Nonomiya Jinja) is located in the Sagano area of Ukyo Ward in Kyoto City. It enshrines Amaterasu Omikami (also known here as Nonomiya Okami) as its main deity. The shrine’s origins lie in the “Nonomiya,” a site where the Saio—an imperial princess serving as the Emperor’s proxy at the Ise Grand Shrine—would undergo purification rituals before traveling to Ise. It also appears in the “Sakaki” (Sacred Tree) chapter of The Tale of Genji, a literary classic from the Heian period.
Within the shrine precincts stand a “Kuroki Torii”, a torii gate made from unpeeled oak trunks, and a “Koshibagaki” fence fashioned from kuromoji (spicebush) branches. These features evoke the ancient sacred atmosphere preserved at Nonomiya Shrine. There is also the Nonomiya Daikokuten, revered as a deity of matchmaking. Next to it sits the “Okame-ishi” (Okame Stone), which is said to grant wishes when gently stroked.
Nonomiya Shrine is believed to bestow blessings for good relationships and romantic success, fertility and safe childbirth, as well as academic achievement, and it draws many visitors throughout the year. In particular, its auxiliary shrine Shirafuku Inari Daimyojin is dedicated to fertility, safe childbirth, and business prosperity. A beautiful moss garden and seasonal flowers further enhance the tranquil atmosphere, delighting those who come to worship or simply enjoy the scenery.
Access to the shrine is convenient: it’s about a 10-minute walk from Arashiyama Station on the Keifuku Electric Railroad Arashiyama Main Line, or a 10-minute walk from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station on the JR Sagano Line. The surrounding area offers many other popular sightseeing spots, including the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove Path and Tenryu-ji Temple, making Nonomiya Shrine a frequent stop on travelers’ itineraries.
This section explains the historical background of Nonomiya Shrine in chronological form—beginning with its role as the “Nonomiya” during the Heian period and tracing its revival as a place of worship in modern times.
1. 794: Relocation of the Capital to Heian-kyo and the Establishment of Nonomiya
When the capital was moved to Heian-kyo (present-day Kyoto), an imperial princess known as the Saio, serving as the Emperor’s proxy at the Ise Grand Shrine, began to be selected. Before traveling to Ise, the Saio would purify herself at a special location called the “Nonomiya.” The current site of Nonomiya Shrine is believed to be where this took place. At that time, Nonomiya was considered a sacred space and featured structures such as the Kuroki Torii (a gate made of unstripped wood) and Koshibagaki fences, reflecting ancient Shinto worship practices.
2. Around 1000: Depiction of “Nonomiya” in The Tale of Genji
In the Heian-period literary classic The Tale of Genji, the “Nonomiya” appears in the “Sakaki” (Sacred Tree) chapter. It serves as the setting for a scene of parting between the protagonist, Hikaru Genji, and Rokujo no Miyasudokoro, capturing both the shrine’s sacred nature and the profound sorrow of the story. This literary portrayal greatly contributed to the widespread recognition of what is now Nonomiya Shrine in later centuries.
3. 1333: Abolition of the Saio System
Entering the Nanboku-chō period (the Northern and Southern Courts era), 1333 (Genko 3) is recorded as the final year when Princess Shōshi (Naishinno Shōshi) served as the Saio. After this, changes in social conditions led to the abolishment of the Saio system, and Nonomiya ceased to function in its original form. Nevertheless, the shrine’s dedication to Amaterasu Omikami remained revered, and local worship of this sacred site continued.
4. 1573: Decline Due to Warfare and Subsequent Revival
During the upheaval of the Azuchi-Momoyama period (late 16th century), Nonomiya Shrine fell into disrepair. However, through Imperial rescripts (rinji) issued by successive emperors, including Emperor Go-Nara and Emperor Nakamikado, reconstruction efforts were carried out. These acts of restoration demonstrate Nonomiya Shrine’s deep connection to the Imperial Household.
5. 1907: The Modern Organization of Nonomiya Shrine
In the Meiji era (1868–1912), a nationwide effort to reorganize and consolidate Shinto shrines took place. Throughout this process, Nonomiya Shrine maintained its distinct identity, upheld by strong local faith. In 1907 (Meiji 40), the shrine precincts were improved and arranged into something close to their present form. From this time onward, Nonomiya Shrine became widely known as a place for blessings related to good relationships, fertility, and academic achievement, drawing increasing numbers of worshippers.
Located in the Sagano area of Ukyo Ward in Kyoto City, Nonomiya Shrine (Nonomiya Jinja) is believed to provide blessings for matchmaking, fertility, and safe childbirth, attracting numerous worshippers. The shrine precincts feature the following key attractions:
■ Kuroki Torii
Known as the “Kuroki Torii” (literally “black wood torii”), this gate is made from oak (kunugi) logs with the bark left intact—often considered one of the oldest torii styles in Japan. Due to the difficulty of preserving unstripped wood and the scarcity of suitable raw timber, it is now said to be the only surviving example of its kind in Japan. Its austere appearance, which contrasts with the more familiar vermilion torii gates, creates a solemn atmosphere that beautifully blends with the surrounding greenery.
■ “Jūtan Koke” Moss Garden
Within the shrine grounds lies a garden covered in “jūtan koke,” or “carpet moss,” spanning around 20 tsubo (approximately 66 square meters). Its lush, uniformly green surface really does resemble a soft moss carpet. The garden includes a white-sand design symbolizing a river, along with a small bridge that evokes the landscape of Arashiyama. In the summer, the fresh green scene—enhanced by the neighboring bamboo groves—delights visitors with its cool, refreshing ambience.
■ Okame-ishi (The “Okame Stone”)
Positioned in front of Nonomiya Daikokuten (a deity of good fortune enshrined here), the Okame-ishi is widely regarded as the most powerful “power spot” at Nonomiya Shrine. Legend holds that if you gently stroke this stone while making a wish, it will come true within a year. It is particularly famous for granting blessings related to romantic success, so many people visit to pray for love. Over time, frequent touching by worshippers has smoothed the stone’s surface until it gleams with a dark luster.
■ Shirafuku Inari Daimyojin
One of the sub-shrines within the grounds, Shirafuku Inari Daimyojin is believed to grant blessings related to fertility, safe childbirth, and prosperous business. Women, especially, hold it in high esteem, and many come here seeking prayers for family well-being or a safe delivery. After Prince and Princess Akishino paid a visit and soon welcomed a pregnancy, word of the shrine’s efficacy spread widely.
Nonomiya Shrine is one of Kyoto’s most iconic shrines, offering a glimpse of Heian-era history, culture, and its harmonious connection with nature. Visitors can experience a sacred and distinctive atmosphere—from the Kuroki Torii to the Okame-ishi—unlike anything else. Many people from all over the country come here in search of blessings such as matchmaking, fertility, and a safe birth.
By combining a trip to Nonomiya Shrine with the nearby bamboo groves of Sagano or other Arashiyama attractions, you can create an even more fulfilling travel experience. We hope you will consider visiting Nonomiya Shrine to immerse yourself in the rich history of Kyoto, find a moment of peaceful reflection, and pray for whatever wish lies closest to your heart.