🕓 2023/4/12
#Gourmet
Gourmet Guide to Kanagawa Prefecture
Kanagawa Prefecture’s cuisine is characterized by a rich variety of dishes born from its abundant natural environment and historical background. Blessed by its coastal geography, Kanagawa offers an abundance of fresh seafood. The Shonan area and Yokosuka, in particular, are known for their plentiful dishes featuring fresh fish and shellfish. Historic tourist destinations such as Yokohama and Kamakura have also preserved their culinary traditions into the modern era, attracting many visitors.
The modern gourmet scene in Kanagawa is appealing for its diverse food culture that blends tradition and innovation. Yokohama Chinatown, known as one of Japan’s largest Chinatowns, offers authentic Chinese cuisine alongside streets brimming with exotic charm.
Meanwhile, interest in “local food” utilizing regional ingredients has also been growing. For example, shirasu-don (whitebait rice bowl) from the Shonan area is a popular dish made with fresh raw whitebait caught that morning. Yokosuka Navy Curry, based on recipes from the former Imperial Japanese Navy, is also widely known among tourists. Furthermore, Yokohama Iekei Ramen, characterized by its rich pork bone soy sauce broth and chewy medium-thick noodles, has become a nationally popular ramen style.
Top 3 Must-Try Dishes in Kanagawa Prefecture
Shirasu-don (Whitebait Rice Bowl)
● The Appeal of Shirasu-don
Shirasu-don, available throughout the Shonan area, is beloved for its freshness and distinctive flavor. In Enoshima and Kamakura especially, rice bowls made with whitebait delivered directly from local fishing ports are extremely popular. The greatest appeal of shirasu-don lies in its freshness. In the Shonan area, morning-caught raw whitebait is immediately transported to local eateries and restaurants, where it is served the same day. Fresh raw whitebait has a plump, bouncy texture and a subtle sweetness, and the fresher it is, the more pronounced these qualities become.
Beyond the taste, the setting is equally special. At “Uomitei” and “Enoshima-tei” on Enoshima, for example, you can enjoy your meal while gazing out at the spectacular view of Sagami Bay from the terrace seating. On a clear day, Mt. Fuji is sometimes visible beyond the ocean, making the dining experience even more extraordinary. Whitebait fishing in the Shonan area employs a single-boat trawling method that captures the whitebait quickly before they can deteriorate. This ensures that the whitebait reaching the market is of the highest freshness. Local fishermen take great pride in the quality of their whitebait, and their dedication results in the delicious shirasu-don you enjoy.
● History of Shirasu-don
The history is deeply rooted in the rich fishing resources and cultural heritage of Sagami Bay. Known as one of Japan’s three great deep bays, Sagami Bay’s seafloor accumulates abundant nutrients, creating an ideal fishing ground that supports a wide variety of fish. The 1980s marked a turning point when local fishermen established a style of processing and directly selling whitebait, establishing “Shonan Shirasu” as a local specialty. During this period, the “Kanagawa Prefecture Shirasu Boat Seine Net Fishing Liaison Council” (commonly known as the Shirasu Council) was established to promote quality improvement and branding.
The popularization of shirasu-don has progressed alongside the development of whitebait fishing. Along the Sagami Bay coast, whitebait fishing takes place from March to December, with seasonal varieties such as “spring shirasu,” “summer shirasu,” and “autumn shirasu” appearing on the market throughout the year. This has led restaurants in the Shonan area to serve shirasu-don made with freshly caught whitebait.
● Where to Eat Shirasu-don!
- Restaurant: Tobiccho Main Branch
- Appeal:
Tobiccho Main Branch on Enoshima is a beloved restaurant renowned for serving fresh whitebait dishes. It is said to be worth the inevitable queue. One of its recommended dishes is the “Shirasu and Sakura Shrimp Soy Sauce-Marinated Rice Bowl.”This bowl features fresh raw whitebait caught that morning, its transparency and luster whetting your appetite. The pristine raw whitebait, free of any fishy smell, pairs perfectly with the savory soy sauce-marinated sakura shrimp. An egg is also included, allowing you to enjoy variations in flavor. Adding the egg creates a mellow taste that even those who are not fond of raw whitebait’s unique aroma can enjoy. You can also opt for a combination with boiled whitebait, letting you savor the exquisite harmony of fluffy whitebait and plump sakura shrimp.
- Access: Approximately 12 minutes on foot from “Katase-Enoshima Station” on the Odakyu Enoshima Line
- Address: 1-6-7 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa
- Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/nnKQRLrdrW7uPx116
Yokosuka Navy Curry
● The Appeal of Yokosuka Navy Curry
This curry originates from the food culture of the former Imperial Japanese Navy and is based on recipes from the “Naval Cooking Reference Book” published in the late Meiji period. In 1999, the city of Yokosuka declared itself the “City of Curry,” and since then, Yokosuka Navy Curry has become widely beloved as a symbol of regional revitalization. Its appeal lies in the faithful reproduction of the historical recipe. At the time, the navy served curry accompanied by salad and milk for nutritional balance. This tradition has been carried on, with many restaurants still serving curry in the same style today.
Yokosuka also offers a diverse range of curry menus for tourists. For example, at Yokosuka Navy Curry Headquarters, uniquely named curries such as “Shimakaze Curry” and “Tenryu Curry,” named after warships, are popular. These curries feature creative ingredients and toppings, making them visually enjoyable as well.
● History of Yokosuka Navy Curry
Yokosuka is a city that has developed alongside the navy, and behind this history lies the origin story of Japanese curry rice. In the late Meiji period, curry was adopted as a navy staple to prevent beriberi. Naval surgeon Takaki Kanehiro, inspired by the curry stew of the British Royal Navy, created a curry thickened with flour and served over rice. This menu was nutritionally well-balanced and effective in preventing beriberi.
In 1999, Yokosuka declared itself the “City of Curry” and recreated the curry for regional revitalization as “Yokosuka Navy Curry.” This curry is based on recipes from the “Naval Cooking Reference Book” published in 1908 (Meiji 41). Ingredients include beef or chicken, potatoes, carrots, and onions, cooked slowly in a roux made with curry powder and flour. Salad and milk are always served as accompaniments, which is also a distinctive feature.
● Where to Eat Yokosuka Navy Curry!
- Restaurant: Yokosuka Navy Curry Headquarters
- Appeal:
“Yokosuka Navy Curry Headquarters” is the flagship restaurant to visit for Yokosuka’s famous “Yokosuka Navy Curry.” Established after the “City of Curry Yokosuka” declaration, the restaurant’s interior recreates the atmosphere of a ship’s dining hall. Upon stepping inside, you feel as though you have been transported back to the Meiji-era navy.The curry here faithfully recreates the curry stew served in the Meiji-era navy. According to staff member Mr. Yokoo, the original navy recipe instructed that “ingredients should be cut into fine dice” — a technique designed to improve heat efficiency. Following this method, ingredients are finely diced and prepared separately from the roux before being combined and served. Made with vegetables and fruits, the curry features an elegant sweetness within its spiciness.
- Address: 2F YY Port Yokosuka, 1-11-8 Wakamatsu-cho, Yokosuka
- Access: 3-minute walk from Yokosuka-Chuo Station
- Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/wgXVE8cNbsPjdwBy7
Yokohama Iekei Ramen
● Yokohama Iekei Ramen
Iekei Ramen was born at “Yoshimuraya” in 1974 and has become a ramen style that represents Yokohama. This ramen features a soup base made from pork bones and chicken carcass, with soy sauce tare and chicken oil (chiyu) added to create a mellow, deeply rich flavor. The richness of the soup and the texture of the noodles are also among iekei ramen’s key attractions. The medium-thick noodles have a chewy, springy texture that clings well to the broth, making for a satisfying meal. Standard toppings include spinach, chashu (braised pork), and nori (seaweed), which further enhance the overall flavor of the ramen.
Furthermore, eating iekei ramen in its birthplace of Yokohama carries special significance. The city is home to many renowned shops, each offering their own unique twist on the style. “Yoshimuraya,” for instance, is known as the originator of iekei ramen, with its rich soup and firm noodles being particularly popular. Another notable shop, Sugitaya, is known as the first direct-lineage branch of “Yoshimuraya,” the grand master of Yokohama iekei ramen. It was opened in 1999 by Susumu Tsumura, who completed his training at Yoshimuraya. Sugitaya is beloved by many fans as a shop run by a chef who endured the rigorous training at Yoshimuraya.
● Yokohama Iekei Ramen
The history of Yokohama Iekei Ramen begins with the founding of “Yoshimuraya” in 1974. Minoru Yoshimura opened this shop, which is regarded as the birthplace of iekei ramen, featuring its signature rich pork bone soy sauce broth and medium-thick noodles.
Training at Yoshimuraya is famously demanding. A 1999 program on TV Tokyo titled “Yokohama Iekei Ramen Yoshimuraya: 180 Days of Hellish Training” showcased its severity. The training involves long working hours from early morning to late at night, strict hygiene management, and detailed instruction on noodle and soup preparation. Only after enduring such rigorous training are trainees allowed to open their own shops.
Following Yoshimuraya’s success, disciples and their students successively became independent, opening shops bearing the “XX-ya” name format. This led to the spread of iekei ramen not only throughout Yokohama but across all of Kanagawa Prefecture and eventually nationwide. During the 1980s and 1990s, renowned shops such as “Rokkakuya” and “Honmokuya” also emerged, further boosting iekei ramen’s popularity.
In the 2000s, chain restaurants known as “capital-type” or “factory-type” iekei shops appeared, expanding nationwide. This firmly established “iekei ramen” as a genre, making it beloved by people across Japan.
● Where to Eat Yokohama Iekei Ramen!
- Restaurant: Yoshimuraya — Grand Master of Iekei Ramen
- Appeal:
Yoshimuraya, founded in 1974, is the originator of Yokohama iekei ramen. The ramen developed by founder Minoru Yoshimura features a rich pork bone soy sauce broth and chewy medium-thick noodles. The soup is enhanced with chicken oil (chiyu), which adds deep richness and aroma.One of the appealing aspects of Yoshimuraya’s ramen is that the soup’s richness, noodle firmness, and oil amount can be adjusted to each customer’s preference. This customizability has earned it support from a wide range of ramen enthusiasts. Standard toppings include spinach, chashu, and nori, all of which complement the broth beautifully.
Yoshimuraya is also famous for its demanding training system. Many disciples who trained under Mr. Yoshimura have gone on to open their own “XX-ya” shops. As a result, iekei ramen has spread throughout Japan, with an ever-growing number of shops carrying on the Yoshimuraya tradition.
- Access: 5-minute walk from JR Yokohama Station
- Address: 1-6-4 Okano, Nishi-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa
- Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/SaPNrwxjVXNXp1Su5