Trails of Spectacular Scenery and Nature Worship on Yakushima｜A Guide to Highlights, Activities & History

 

　Table of Contents

1. Overview of Yakushima
2. Yakushima’s Timeless History, Stretching Back to Antiquity
3. Historic Sites and Cultural Assets That Tell Yakushima’s Story
4. Yakushima’s Signature Natural Attractions

Introduction

This article offers a comprehensive look at Yakushima—from the island’s geological origins to the present day—covering its historical background, the heritage sites and cultural facilities where that history can be felt, and the must-see natural attractions that showcase its abundant wilderness. Use this guide to uncover Yakushima’s many layers of appeal and enrich your travel planning.

 1. Overview of Yakushima 

Yakushima is a roughly circular volcanic island that floats in the East China Sea, about 60 km south of mainland Kagoshima Prefecture in the warm Kuroshio Current. It covers an area of approximately 504 km². Dominating the interior is Mount Miyanoura (1,936 m)—the highest peak in Kyushu—whose slopes create a striking vertical succession of vegetation zones, from coastal evergreen broad-leaved forests to sub-alpine conifer belts. This “vertical distribution” is of worldwide botanical interest.

In 1993, about 21 percent of the island (10,747 ha) was inscribed on the UNESCO World Natural Heritage list, protecting its primeval forests of Yakusugi cedars and a notably high rate of endemic species.

Rainfall is prodigious—locals joke that it “rains 35 days a month.” Annual precipitation averages roughly 4,500 mm along the coast and reaches 8,000 mm in the interior, the highest in Japan. The combination of heavy rainfall and steep topography has sculpted moss-laden ravines and millennia-old cedars that double as sacred sites for mountain worship. Ongoing conservation monitoring—including measures against over-browsing by the native Yakushika deer and the control of invasive species—continued through the 2023 fiscal year, drawing global attention to Yakushima as a model of coexistence between nature and people.

Administratively, the island belongs to Yakushima Town and had an estimated population of 11,473 as of April 2024. Tourist numbers rebounded after the pandemic, reaching 247,105 visitor entries in fiscal year 2023.

 2. Yakushima’s Timeless History Reaching Back into Deep Antiquity 

Yakushima’s story begins with the island’s singular formation: granite that once cooled and hardened in a submarine magma chamber later rose above the waves to create the circular landmass we see today. Since those remote ages, the island has been deeply intertwined with human life. Let us trace this unbroken thread of history. 

　1. The Breath of the Jōmon and Everyday Life in Prehistory

People are thought to have settled Yakushima more than 10,000 years ago. At the Yakushima Yokomine Site in the Harumaki district on the island’s southeast coast, archaeologists have uncovered crystal trigonal arrowheads and pottery that offer glimpses into those early inhabitants’ way of life. These finds provide invaluable clues to the technologies and daily customs of the time. 

Around 7,300 years ago, however, the cataclysmic eruption of the Kikai Caldera is believed to have wiped out life on the island with pyroclastic flows. Even so, people eventually returned, and by the Jōmon period they were living widely across Yakushima once again. The island’s continued appeal as a place to live—and the resilience that allowed residents to rebuild after disaster—speaks volumes about both Yakushima’s resources and the tenacity of its early communities.

　2. First Appearance in Historical Records and the Impact of Outside Powers

Yakushima steps clearly onto the stage of recorded history in 682 CE, when the Shoku Nihongi mentions the “Yaku-jin” (掖玖人). The citation shows that the central government was aware of the island and regarded its people as having a distinct culture.

From 618 CE onward, during the era of the Tang missions, Yakushima also served as one of the ports of call for envoys traveling to China. The famed monk Ganjin (Jianzhen) is said to have stopped here on his voyage to Japan, highlighting the island’s strategic importance in maritime traffic.  

In the Muromachi period and beyond, Yakushima came under the sway of powerful external forces such as the Tanegashima and Shimazu clans. Rich forest resources—especially Yakusugi cedar—and the island’s key location on sea routes made it an object of fierce competition. A bitter struggle between the Tanegashima clan and the Nene clan of the Ōsumi Peninsula left its mark in the form of mountain-castle ruins such as the Miyanoura Jōgahira Castle Site and the Kusukawa Castle Site. These fortifications testify to the tense politics of the era and Yakushima’s strategic value.

　3. The Rise and Fall of Yakusugi Forestry

The written record of Yakusugi use begins in 1563, when Shimazu Takahisa employed the cedar for rebuilding Kagoshima Jingu Shrine (then Ōsumi Hachiman-gū). Toyotomi Hideyoshi likewise used Yakusugi in constructing the Great Buddha Hall at Hōkō-ji in Kyoto.

In the early Edo period, the Yakushima-born Confucian scholar Tomari Jochiku advised the Satsuma domain to remit thin Yakusugi roofing boards (hiraki) as annual tribute, sparking full-scale forestry on the island. Thanks to quality timber and a thriving bonito-flake industry, Yakushima became relatively prosperous; documents remark that it was “hard to believe it was the countryside.”  

Under the Meiji government, most of the forest was designated state land. In 1924 the Kosugidani Logging Office opened as a forward base, complete with a forest railway for hauling timber. Large-scale, organized felling of Yakusugi peaked in the 1950s and ’60s, fueling economic growth and infrastructure but also toppling thousand-year-old giants and disrupting ecosystems.

Yakusugi was thus a “double-edged sword,” bringing both prosperity and environmental loss. Remains of the railways and logging settlements are now registered as the “Sites of Yakushima Forestry Villages and Forest Railways,” indispensable relics of the island’s modern history. 

　4. The Road to World Natural Heritage

Amid continued large-scale logging, the 1966 discovery of the immense Jōmon-sugi cedar proved a turning point. The find reawakened public appreciation of Yakushima’s primeval nature and spurred calls for protection.

Grass-roots action led the charge. Inspired by pioneers like Shiba Masanori (founder of Kenmeidō), local advocates such as Hyōdō Masaaki and Shiba Tetsuo formed the “Society to Protect Yakushima” in 1970, campaigning vigorously against logging. Photographer Ōyama Yūsaku and others released the documentary Report from Yakushima, exposing the devastation to a wider audience.

Decades of effort bore fruit in 1993, when Yakushima—together with Shirakami-Sanchi—became one of Japan’s first UNESCO World Natural Heritage Sites. The listing recognized the island’s unique ecosystems and stunning landscapes as a treasure for all humankind.  

Yet inscription brought new challenges. A surge in visitors—many bound for Jōmon-sugi—led to eroded trails, litter, and waste-management issues. The very act of “protective listing” paradoxically created fresh environmental pressures, prompting ongoing work to balance sustainable tourism with conservation.  

akushima is sprinkled with precious historic sites and cultural assets that bring the island’s long history to life. Exploring them deepens your understanding of how the island formed, how its people lived, and how their beliefs took shape.

　・Yaku-jinja Shrine

Yaku-jinja, already listed in the 10th-century Engishiki register of shrines, has served for well over 1,100 years as the island’s guardian shrine and a focus of fervent local faith.

• Principal deity: Hiko-ho-ho-demi-no-mikoto (Prince Yamasachihiko) from Japanese mythology. An inner sanctuary dedicated to him stands atop Mt. Miyanoura, Yakushima’s highest peak.
  
  
• Even today islanders practice the traditional Take-mairi (“mountain pilgrimage”), climbing the peak in a fusion of ancient mountain worship and Shintō.
  
  
• Each settlement once had its own auxiliary shrine; the tradition links closely to Yakushima’s Three Sacred Peaks faith—Mt. Miyanoura, Mt. Nagata, and Mt. Kuriu

　・Grave of Tomari Jochiku

A key figure in Yakushima’s history is Tomari Jochiku (1599–1673), revered locally as the “Saint of Yakushima.” His grave in the Anbō settlement is a nationally designated historic site.

• Educated in Buddhism and Confucianism in Kyōto and Kagoshima, Jochiku later tutored Shimazu Mitsuhisa, lord of Satsuma.
  
  
• Returning home, he spearheaded projects to improve island life—most notably the Jochiku-bori irrigation channel, which diverted water from the Anbō River to create new rice paddies.
  
  
• He also proposed paying domain taxes with thin Yakusugi roofing boards (hiraki), launching full-scale forestry. While this enriched local livelihoods, it ultimately led to large-scale cedar logging—a reminder that historical deeds can invite complex later judgments.

Every year on the first Saturday of November, the Yakushima Dream Festival lights hundreds of bamboo lanterns around his grave in a magical tribute. 

　・Yakushima Lighthouse

Perched on the cliffs of Cape Nagata at the island’s western tip, the snow-white Yakushima Lighthouse has protected shipping lanes since its first beacon shone in 1897.

• Its elegant, chapel-like design contrasts beautifully with the green forest and blue sea and is registered as a national tangible cultural property.
  
  
• Famous for sunsets, the silhouette of the lighthouse against a sinking sun creates breathtaking views.
  
  
• The structure testifies to Yakushima’s long role as a maritime crossroads and to the vital need for safe navigation amid harsh ocean conditions.

　・Other Noteworthy Historic Sites

In addition to the above, Yakushima is dotted with other interesting historical sites that tell the story of its diverse history. These sites reflect the island's multifaceted past, including its religious beliefs, contact with the outside world, the development of infrastructure for life, and the history of modern industry.

　・Jōmon Sugi

Famed as Yakushima’s living emblem, Jōmon Sugi is the largest Yakusugi cedar so far discovered. Estimates of its age range from 2,000 to 7,200 years, and its commanding presence stands as a monument to life that has endured for millennia.

The tree became widely known only after its discovery in 1966—a watershed that prompted Japan to reassess Yakushima’s natural heritage and pivot toward conservation. Until then, extensive logging of Yakusugi had been under way; the emergence of Jōmon Sugi signaled that the forest’s intrinsic worth transcended economic value.

Today the tree is viewed from a raised deck that protects its roots, and touching it is prohibited. Reaching Jōmon Sugi requires a demanding round-trip trek of roughly 22 km from the Arakawa trailhead—about ten hours in total—so adequate fitness and preparation are essential.   

　・Shiratani Unsuikyō (including the Mossy Forest & Taiko Iwa)

Shiratani Unsuikyō is a ravine nourished by Yakushima’s abundant rainfall, where a mystic carpet of moss blankets the forest floor. The Mossy Forest—widely regarded as the model for the woodland in the film Princess Mononoke—draws visitors into an otherworldly realm of deep green.

Here, ancient cedars mingle with hemlocks and firs, while evergreen oaks and camellias add broad-leaf variety. Clear streams thread between massive granite boulders, creating a landscape as varied as it is sublime—an immense natural garden sculpted by water and stone.

Multiple hiking routes suit different schedules and fitness levels: the short Yayoi-sugi Course, the intermediate Bugyō-sugi Route via the Mossy Forest and Shiratani Hut, and the longer Taiko Iwa Circuit, which rewards hikers with sweeping panoramas of the central mountains. On a clear day, Taiko Iwa affords a peerless view of Mt. Miyanoura and the island’s lofty interior—a thrill that often exceeds the expectations of film pilgrims drawn by the forest’s screen fame.   

　・Yakusugi Land

Spreading between 1,000 m and 1,300 m elevation, Yakusugi Land is an extensive recreation forest where centuries-old cedars loom at every turn. Named giants—Sennen-sugi, Buddha-sugi, Kuguri-sugi, Oyako-sugi, Hige-Chōrō, and more—offer endless fascination.

The park’s hallmark is its five well-marked trails, ranging from easy 30-minute strolls to a full, five-hour mountain loop. Whether you are traveling with small children or are an avid, sure-footed hiker, you can experience the power of the primeval forest at your own pace.

Opened in 1971 as the “Yakushima Nature Recreation Forest (Arakawa District),” Yakusugi Land was an early pioneer of hands-on nature tourism. For visitors unable to tackle the arduous Jōmon Sugi trek, it remains an invaluable gateway to the wonders of the cedar forest.

　・Ōko-no-taki & Senpiro-no-taki Waterfalls

With rain said to fall “thirty-five days a month,” Yakushima’s plentiful waters feed numerous spectacular cascades. Two standouts embody the island’s dramatic topography and abundant flow.

Ōko-no-taki plunges 88 m—reputedly the highest single drop in Kyushu—and ranks among “Japan’s Top 100 Waterfalls.” A path brings you close enough to feel the spray and hear the thunderous roar. Near the trailhead, the Ōko Spring, listed among Japan’s “100 Exquisite Waters,” invites a refreshing sip.

Senpiro-no-taki (literally “A-Thousand-Fathom Falls”) lies on the slope of Mt. Mocchomu and drops about 60 m down a vast single slab of granite carved into a V-shaped gorge. Local lore says the rock face is as wide as a thousand people linking arms—hence the name Senpiro.

While the lookout offers a fine vista, a new trail completed in 2023 leads close to the plunge pool; from the suspension bridge you can gaze up at the torrent’s full force. Both waterfalls reveal the sculptural beauty born of Yakushima’s granite bedrock and relentless rain.  

　・Seibu Rindō (Western Forest Road)

The Seibu Rindō (Western Forest Road) links the Nagata and Kurio settlements along Yakushima’s northwest and southwest coasts. About 15 km of its 20 km length lie inside the World Natural Heritage zone—remarkable in that the largely untouched evergreen broad-leaf forest descends from summit to shoreline along a road you can actually drive, a unique privilege within any heritage site in Japan.

Completed in 1967 as part of a proposed island loop highway, the road once served everyday traffic but now functions mainly as a nature-observation route. Nicknamed the “green tunnel,” it affords an excellent chance of spotting Yakushima’s endemic wildlife—Yakushika deer and Yaku-zaru macaques—among the dense foliage.

A leisurely drive through this primeval setting offers a rare glimpse of how people and wild animals coexist in Yakushima’s rich natural world.

　・Nagata Inakahama

Stretching for about one kilometre on the island’s northwest coast, Nagata Inakahama is a stunning sweep of fine white sand against emerald water, renowned for sunsets. More importantly, it is one of Japan’s foremost nesting sites for loggerhead turtles.

From May to July, scores of turtles come ashore to lay eggs. Recognized as a Ramsar Wetland, the beach enjoys international protection. Because nesting is extremely sensitive, visitors must follow strict guidelines and observe quietly. Nagata Inakahama testifies that Yakushima’s ecological wealth extends beyond forest to shoreline and sea, reminding us of life’s intricate web.

 In Closing 

Yakushima is both a treasure house of primordial forests and an island shaped by countless layers of history and culture. Beyond world-famous natural wonders such as Jōmon Sugi and Shiratani Unsuikyō, visiting the island’s scattered historic sites and museums—and listening to the stories preserved there—will let you appreciate Yakushima’s multifaceted appeal on a deeper level.

This article has outlined the grand sweep of Yakushima’s past, highlighted places where you can experience that history firsthand, and shared practical tips for planning your trip. Blessed with lush nature and a profound cultural legacy, this mysterious island invites you to create your own journey of discovery. Let this guide be your starting point as you plan an adventure uniquely your own on Yakushima.